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CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA

A RIDE TO LITTLE TIBET

HENRY LANSDELL, D.D.

&.R.A.S., F.R.G.S.

AUTHOR OF " THROUGH SIBERIA," " RUSSIAN CENTRAL ASIA," 41 THROUGH CENTRAL A9IA," ETC.

SSith T&Wctt J$ap0 **b $»ghtg Illustration*

/AT TWO VOLUMES Vol. I.

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CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS

"53—157 FIFTH AVENUE

1894

[All rights reservtd\

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BY THE SAME AUTHOR.

â– RUSSIAN CENTRAL ASIA,

INCLUDING

KULDJA, BOKHARA. KHIVA, AND MERV. In Two Volumes, 42s.

THROUGH CENTRAL ASIA.

With a Map and Appendix on the Russo- Afghan Frontier. In One Volume, 12s.

THROUGH SIBERIA.

In One Volume, 10s. 6d. Library Edition, Two Volumes, 30J.

Far further particulars, see page 457.

%o 5?i0 august aati imperial a^ajejJtp The BmPE^o^ ob €Chin&,

ETC., ETC., ETC.

Sire,

Seeing that my work on " Russian Central Asia " was dedicated by permission to His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of Russia, I desired that these volumes on " Chinese Central Asia " should be dedicated to His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of China. To this end permission was asked on my behalf of the Imperial Government in Peking by Her Britannic Majesty's Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary ; Sir John Walsham, Baronet; and the answer of the Yamen, telegraphed by him to the Foreign Office in London, was to the effect that no foreign work could be presented or dedicated to the Emperor until it had been translated into Chinese, and examined by the responsible ministers.

A few weeks later, however, letters arrived from Peking telling me more fully what had been done, and inclosing a translation of a letter from the Secretaries of the Yamen to Mr Jordan, Oriental Secretary at the British Embassy at Peking. In this translation I read that u The Prince and Ministers consider Dr Lansdell has done a very praiseworthy work indeed in making a special study of the habits and customs of the people among whom he travelled, and in compiling a book which he wishes to see widely circulated in China" I gather also that

217L83

iv DEDICATION,

the Secretaries of the Yatnen on one occasion verbally requested Mr Jordan to inform Sir John Walsham that you, Sire, were graciously disposed to accept the proposed dedication (which I esteemed a great kindness on the part of your Majesty), though the letter referred to affirms the general rule in regard to works of foreign origin and language.

Seeing then, Sire, that my linguistic attainments do not enable me to translate my work into Chinese, and that I cannot delay its publication in England, and hoping further that I have at least your good-will and favour in the matter, I trust I shall not be committing an unpardonable crime if I venture here to offer my book to your Imperial Majesty as a humble token of thank- fulness for protection and safe conduct whilst travelling through a remote portion of your Majesty's dominions,

I confess to having been gratified, on crossing the Chinese frontier at Kuldja, to find my coming expected, and at Kashgar my reception provided for. Much assistance was afforded me in the Hi valley by the provision of suitable interpreters for the little-known languages of some of the peoples with whom I was brought into contact. Moreover, in preparing for my journey across the Muzart Pass, the greatest care was taken of my person, and my comfort studied, whilst as I continued round Chinese Turkistan I received from your Majesty s officials repeated mani- festations of hospitality and good-will. All this made my journey less arduous than I expected, and greatly mitigated what were to me the privations of the way.

Chinamen, I believe, usually travel for one of three reasons — namely, on Government service, commerce, or religion. It was the last of these, Sire, that led me to travel in China, and from the following pages it will be seen that my object was to spread the knowledge of the supreme God. I am aware that when an Englishman thus approaches the Chinese, he approaches an an- cient nation with a literature much older than his own ; a people

DEDICATION. v

which numbers perhaps a third of the population of th$ globe, and whose armies, through many centuries, were ever victorious. I have heard, too, of Chinese prejudice against the religion and ways of foreigners; but I do not forget that Buddhism, now so widely spread throughout the empire, was originally imported from abroad, and that an illustrious Emperor of China, more than a thousand years ago, gave a respectful hearing to a Nestorian teacher of Christianity, and, after raising him to high religious office, appointed him " Great Conservator of Doctrine for the preservation of the State." Others of your Imperial Majesty s august predecessors have similarly shown favour to Christianity (some of them by building Christian churches), and only within the last few years an edict has been issued enjoining the Chinese people to respect Christians and praising their teaching as pro- moting peace and good living.

These things lead us in England to hope that some, at least, in China are willing to give to Christianity a fair hearing. And this, Sire, is precisely what we ask for. We do not seek to force our religion upon your Majesty fs subjects (as the Muhammadans have often done in the Tarim valley) by the power of the sword. We are willing that the superiority of our religion should be tested by its fruits, feeling sure that Christianity, rightly taught, can do as much for the happiness of the Chinese as it has done for the English. To this end there are some hundreds of my countrymen and countrywomen who are nobly and unselfishly spending their lives for the good of China. For these may I ask your Majesty's favour and encouragement, feeling as I do that they art deseroing of kindness and consideration? Most of them have sundered, wholly or in part, family ties, which are deemed sacred all the world over. Not a few have relinquished positions of comparative ease and comfort, in order to be of use to the people amongst whom they have come to live. And although, lastly, my own little effort is not worthy of mention in comparison with theirs,

vi DEDICATION.

yet, inasmuch as the journey recorded in these volumes was by far the hardest I have known, I hope that the record of what has been attempted may be regarded as some little indication of my desire for what I believe to be the good of your Majesty's empire.

It is with these sentiments, Sire, of thankful appreciation of kindness shown to me in Chinese Turkistan, and with every good wish for the highest welfare of your Majesty and the people of your vast dominions, that I venture respectfully to subscribe myself,

Your Imperial Majesty's very humble Servant,

THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

THIS book is intended to be a companion and complement to my Russian Central Asia. The area covered by the two works extends all across the continent from the Caspian to the Pacific, whilst my Through Siberia deals with the rest of Asia, north- ward, to the Arctic Ocean. By Chinese Central Asia is meant that portion of the Celestial Empire lying outside the Great Wall — that is to say, external or extra-mural China ; but not all parts thereof are here treated with equal fulness.

In the chapters concerning Chinese Turkistan I have endeavoured to be fairly thorough, if only because we have no standard work treating of this country as a whole. In saying this I do not forget the contributions of Sir Douglas Forsyth, Surgeon- General Bellew, and others, to whose valuable reports and writings, published and unpublished, in connection with the Yarkand Missions, I am greatly indebted. Names of other writers also on certain parts of the country, to whom I owe much, are given in the Bibliography.

The main object of my journey was to spy out the

viii PREFACE.

land for missionary purposes. If, however, the lover of missionary information should think that I did little or no work of a missionary kind myself, I would re- mind him that as a preacher I was dumb ; as a dis- tributer of literature I had not the proper translations ; whilst as a pioneer I conceived it my chief task to observe what openings existed, or could be made, for qualified evangelists to follow.

The book has been longer in making its appearance than I intended. As a matter of fact the word "Finis" was written on my rough manuscript more than a year ago, but the work of revision and printing has been delayed by private affairs with which it is not neces- sary to trouble the reader.

A preface, though coming in a book first, is written last, and therefore may be regarded in more senses than one as a suitable place for thanksgiving. Several old friends who aided me with my earlier books have again come to my assistance ; such as Mr Glaisher, F.R.S., in meteorology, and Professor Bonney, F.R.S., in geology. Mr Dresser, F.Z.S., determined and arranged such of my birds as are here presented ; whilst Mr Bethune- Baker, F.L.S., F.E.S., and Mr Western, F.E.S., kindly made lists of my lepidoptera and coleoptera. In literary matters, Lieut. W. H. Cromie and Mrs Bell have again helped in Russian translation, and the Rev. W. W. Tyler, B.D., has done much by way of revision. To all of the foregoing my thanks are due, as also to my wife, who has penned the whole of the Bibliography, and the Chronology.

PREFA CE. ix

Most of the illustrations are from my own photo- graphs, and have been drawn to illustrate articles in Harper's and Scribriers Magazines, the Graphic, the Fishing Gazette, and Black and White, as well as a series of letters on '• A Ride to Little Tibet " in the Daily Graphic. If the illustrations from the last of these should appear somewhat rough and unfinished, the reader will kindly remember that the blocks were not prepared for this book, but for the exigencies of rapid newspaper printing. They are, however, so true to nature and what actually occurred that it was deemed desirable not to omit them. To the editors of the above-mentioned periodicals I am indebted for electro- types. Still more perhaps am I indebted to Dr Lindsay Johnson, the oculist, who not only urged my taking a camera, but with excellent judgment selected my apparatus, and gave me lessons in photography.

The foregoing may be called home thanksgivings. It is with difficulty that I mention names of those who helped me abroad ; for if I begin, where shall I stop ? As 1 did not rely in vain upon the assistance of the Foreign Office, the Russian Embassy, or the Chinese Legation at home, so was I similarly favoured at the Russian capital, where his Excellency M. Pobe- donostzefif and various Ministers of State lent me their important aid, so that between St Petersburg and the Chinese frontier the Russians outdid all they have ever done for me in smoothing my way.

In India, again, the Marquis of Lansdowne, as Viceroy, and several heads of departments, not only

x PREFACE.

lent me valuable books and maps, but gave me letters, and showed me an amount of attention out of all pro- portion to my claims or deservings. I was favoured for the entire journey with from three to four hundred introductions — official, social, religious, scientific, lite- rary, and general. What they did for me may be surmised when it is added that, though I set foot in every country of Asia, I was permitted to go there to scarcely a dozen hotels.

In sending forth this book, I do so with hearty greetings to those who, in various parts of the world, have perused my former works. If it shall further interest or instruct them, I shall be glad; but my greatest happiness would be that the work may in some way call attention to the need, and help in fur- ther opening up the remote parts of China to the influence of the Gospel.

H. L.

Morden College,

Blackheath, London, S.E.

i i th November ', 1 893 .

P.S. — Within a few days of sending this sheet to press, my attention has been called to a new map of the Pamir regions by Messrs Constable & Co., who state that it embodies the latest information published (besides much of value that is unpublished) on the region in question. I have accordingly inserted the map in Volume II., to illustrate further my chapter on the Pamirs, and my route over the adjacent mountains.

CONTENTS.

PAGES

Dedication iii

Preface vii

Contents of Chapters xi

List of Illustrations in Volume I xxii

The Author's Itinerary xxiv

Observanda xxx

Introduction xxxi

CHAPTER I.

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW.

The start, and Author's forebodings, I. — Delayed arrival at Berlin ; Visit to the Chinese Embassy, 2. — Custom-house at Wirballen ; Arrival at St Petersburg, and objects of visit ; Request to travel by Trans-Caspian Railway, 3. — Calls on Sir Robert Morier and M. Pobedonostzeff; Acceptance by Emperor of Through Central Asia, 4. — Promise of help from Minister of Interior ; Scientists visited ; Social gatherings, and dinner at Embassy, 5. — Visit to M. Vlangali, Assistant-Minister for Foreign Affairs ; Reception by Prince Dondukoff- Korsakoff, and recommendation to General Annenkoff ; Visit to the Minister for War, 6. — My programme, 8. — Meeting with General Kostenko, 9. — Departure for Moscow ; Travelling acquaintances, Dr Alexeef and Count Bobrinsky, junr, 10.— Arrival in Moscow, and call on Count Leo Tolstoi, 11. — Departure southwards, 12 1 — 12

xii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER II. FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN.

PAGES

Railway dangers ahead ; Pleasant fellow-passengers, and offers of hospitality, 13. — Arrival at Kursk; Arrival and enforced stoppage at Kharkof, 14. — Former visit to town prison, 15. — Departure from Kharkof, and arrival in Crimea, 16. — Improved weather at Sevastopol; Sunday service, 17. — Departure for Batoum ; H.B.M. Consul ; Departure across Caucasus, and arrival at Tiflis ; Sir Drummond Wolff and Col. Stewart ; Presentation of introductory letters, 18. — Dr Radde and M. Hedjouboff ; Departure from Tiflis to Baku, 20 13—20

CHAPTER III.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

"Wanted" by the Police-master; Call on the Governor, 21. — Com- forts on steamer to Uzun Ada ; Landing at railway terminus, 22. — Trans-Caspian stations to oasis of Akhal Tekke, 25. — Kizil Arvat, 26. — Arrival at Geok Tepe, 28. — My coming to Askhabad expected, 30. — Continuation of journey to Dushak, 32. — Arrival at Merv, 35. — Hospitality of Colonel Alikhanoff; Modern Merv, 36. — Oriental carpets and embroidery, 37. — Alikhanoff's successful administration ; Quiet and order of Panjdeh, 38. — A visit to Old Merv, 39. — Ruins on site of Merv; Arab and Persian remains, 41. — Russian annexation of Merv, 43. — How brought about, 44. — Liberation of slaves, 46 21 — 46

CHAPTER IV.

FROM MERV TO THE OXUS.

Further railway favours, 47. — Journey through sand barkhans and desert stations, 48. — Guest at Amu-daria with Colonel Tcharykoff, 50. — Reforms by new Emir of Bokhara, 51. — Dinner- party at Colonel TcharykofTs, 52. — Visit to Bek of Charjui ; Murder of previous Bek, and lynching the murderer, 54. — The prison re- visited, 55. — The gallows, 57. — Journey continued in a rolling maisonette, 58. — Bridge over the Oxus, 59. — Inn at Bokhara station, 60 47—60

CONTENTS. xiii

CHAPTER V. BOKHARA.

PAGES

Drive to the town, 61. — Fellow-guests and repeated experiences; Madame Klemm's hospitality, 62. — Russian ladies in Bokhara, 63. — Espionage and suspicion of natives ; Visit to bazaar and Kalan Mosque ; Photography allowed but suspected, 64. — House of the Ishan and maniacs, 65. — Picture-taking under difficulties ; Visit to Jewish synagogue, 67. — Morning prayers and circumcision, 68. — Jewish oppression in Bokhara, 69. — Visit to city prison, 70. — Lepers' quarter, 72. — Audience with the Emir, 73: — " A bargain's a bargain " ; Political influence of Russian Residency, 77.— Rides about the town, 78 61 — 79

CHAPTER VI.

SAMARKAND.

Departure from Bokhara, 80. — Arrival at head of the line ; Guest of General AnnenkofF, 81. — M. Rubenstein and Dr Heyfelder, 84. — Drive to Katte Kurgan ; Custom-house ; A banquet anticipated, 85. — Departure by post-horses, 86. — Farewell to General Annenkoff; Bridges prepared for railway, 87.— Approach to Samarkand; Guest with M. Tolpygo; Dinner at Government House, 88. — Condition of former acquaintances ; Sights revisited ; Tamerlane's Mausoleum, 89. — Synagogue, and visits from Jews ; Farewell to M. Tolpygo and Samarkand, 91 80—91

CHAPTER VII.

TASHKEND.

Crossing the Zarafshan to the bridge of Shadman-Malik ; Route to Jizak, 92. — Across the " Hungry " Steppe to Chinaz, 93. — Tashkend, 94.— Dinner with Governor-General Rosenbach ; Help from Captain Blinoff, 95.— Easter services, and subsequent recep- tion at Government House; Lutherans' request for a service and Easter communion ; Withdrawal of money from bank, 96. — Arrangements for communication with Kashgar, 97. — Improve- ments in Tashkend and purchases, 99. — Russian lady nurses, 101. — An open-air bazaar; Further visits to Government House, and parting amenities, 102 92—102

xiv CONTENTS,

CHAPTER VIU. FROM TASHKEND TO ISSIK-KUL.

PAGES

Departure from Tashkend ; Arrival at Chimkend, 103.— Passing through Aulie-Ata ; Previous visit remembered at stations beyond, 104. — Region of " Ming-bulak " ; Out of General Government of Turkistan into that of the "Steppe"; Telegrams to and from General Kolpakovsky; Arrival at Pishpek, 105.— Should I visit Issik- Kul ? 106. — Start with a Colonel ; Arrival at Tokmak, and excur- sion to the Burana Tower, 107. — Recent discovery of Nestorian cemeteries, 109. — Two graves opened, 1 10. — Traces of surround- ing habitations ; Tokmak cemetery ; Inscriptions and decipher- ment, 112. — Departure from Tokmak ; The Buam defile ; Crossing the Chu to Kok-Mainak, 114. — Northern chain of the Tian Shan ; The Ala-Tau and Alexander ranges; Basin of Issik-Kul, 115. — Description of the lake ; Road along its northern shore ; A narrow escape; Arrival at Kara-Kol, 116 103 — 116

CHAPTER IX.

FROM ISSIK-KUL TO VIERNY.

A previous traveller to Issik-Kul ; Scenery of Kara-Kol, 1 17. — Attentions from Colonel Vaouline ; Arrangements of Chief of the District on my behalf, 118.— Change of plans, 119.— The Kara-Kirghese; their districts, origin, and costume, 120. — How far Muhammadans; Missions among them of Russian Church, 121. — Kirghese modes of treating disease; Fish, for specimens, 124.— Passing through Pishpek, 125. — The Chu river and the Aral depression ; Our wheel fallen to pieces, 126. — Arrival at Otar, and repair of tarantass, 127. —Arrival at Uzun-Agatch, and escort to Vierny, 128 . 117 — 128

CHAPTER X.

VIERNY AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE,

Vierny pleasantly situated, 129.— Eye- witnesses' description of earth- quake, 130. — Houses of burnt brick most damaged ; Destruction around town; Mud streams from the mountains, 131. — Losses of life, 132. — Removal of inhabitants; Author taken to Governor's temporary abode; Lodged in M. Gourdet's new house, 133. — Money sent to Kashgar, 134. — Anniversary of earthquake, and Memorial Chapel; Seismic record of earthquake shocks, 135. — Baggage delayed; Remissness of Russian Society for Trans- port, 137. — Douceur given and misappropriated, 138. — Arrival of baggage; Luggage forwarded to J arkend, 139 . . 129—139

CONTENTS. xv

CHAPTER XI. FROM VIERNY TO THE CHINESE FRONTIER.

PAGES

Departure from Vierny, and meeting an Englishman at Ilisk, 140. — A gang of Siberian exiles ; False statement as to their chains, 141. — Altitude of Ilisk, 142. — Crossing bridge ; Geology of the road ; Need of sound wheels; Road to Jarkend, 143. — Hospitality pro- vided, 144. — Introduction to a rich native ; Offers of service from Prjevalsky's guides, 145. — Arrangements for money, and modes of conveyance ; Purchase of cart and horses, 146.— Kindness of Yuldasheff; Departure from Jarkend, and review of Russian favours, 147. — Driving towards the frontier, and warnings as to being stopped, 148. — Advised to approach from Peking, 149. — Deprived of interpreter, 150. — Cossacks for escort, and "success number one"; Site of ancient Almalik; Martyrdom of mediaeval Christians; To and at Suiting; Arrival at Kuldja, 151 . 140 — 151

CHAPTER XII.

MANCHURIA, MONGOLIA, SUNGARIA,

China within and beyond the Wall ; Outer China girdled by mountains ; Former extent of China's dominion ; Character of surface, 153. — Political divisions of Outer China, 1 54.— Manchuria ; its boundaries, dimensions, mountains, and rivers; its provinces, government, and population, 155. — Our knowledge of Manchuria, and whence acquired ; Nomad tribes, their Shamanism, and partial conver- sion, 156. — Manchuria colonised by Chinese; Manchu, the court and official language of China; Efforts to Christianise Man- churia, 1 58. — Mongolia ; its dimensions and climate, 1 60. — Divisions and towns of Mongolia ; Kiakhta, and tea route ; Inhabitants of Mongolia, 161. — The Mongols, lamaists, 162. — Missionaries' trans- lation of Bible still in use ; Baptisms by Russian missionaries ; Missions to southern Mongols, 163. — A difficult but open field, 164. — Sungaria ; its depressions a highway to and from the Turkistan plains; Three districts of Sungaria, 165. Chuguchak; its troops and trade, 166. — District of Kara-kur-usu ; its lakes and towns ; The imperial high road to Hami, 168. — History of the Sungars, and their approximate extermination ; Sungaria repeopled by various nationalities, 169. — Translation of Scriptures into Kalmuk ; Another field for missionary effort, 170 .... 152 — 170

xvi CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIII. CHINESE OFFICIAL PRELIMINARIES.

PAGES

Lodgings at Kuldja, 171. — Book-post parcels not opened by Censor, 172. — Packages from Russian Consul ; Visit to M. Uspensky, 173. — Changed appearance of Kuldja under Chinese, 175. — Arrival of horses, 176.— Paucity of public buildings ; Call from Lutheran postmaster, 177. — Letter from the Tsian-Tsiun ; Excursion to Suiting, 178. — Appearance of Suiting, 179. — Chinese inn; Intruding natives and distracting noises, 181.— Called to breakfast with Kah; A score of dishes, 182. — Chinese table etiquette and conversa- tion, 184. — Return call from Kah; his Manchu agility-; Audience with the Tsian-Tsiun, 185. — Presents to Tsian-Tsiun and Kah ; Calls from and upon Mattie, a former acquaintance, 186. — Presents from Tsian-Tsiun, including a sucking-pig; Disgust of Muham- madan innkeeper ; Return to Kuldja, 187 . . . 171 — 187

CHAPTER XIV.

PREPARATIONS AT KULDJA,

My impedimenta, 188. — Food, physic, and clothing, 189. — Furniture, books, and instruments, 190. — Presents ; Visit from a blind native, 192. — Call on Roman missionaries, 193. — Their assistance sought by Chinese ; 111 effects of child-marriage, 194. — Shelter given to the girl by missionaries ; Names added to roll of adherents ; Chinese quarter of Kuldja and magistrate's procession, 195. — Instruments of punishment, 196. — Intended route changed, 197. — Interpreter into Chinese unwilling to proceed, 198. — Withdrawal of interpreter into Turki ; Perplexing, but subsequently proving well ; Objections to route vid Urumtsi ; Consideration as to moun- tain roads, 199. — The Muzart Pass, 200. — A caravan leader willing to attempt it ; How affecting main object of journey ; Where to find interpreter? 201 . — Another excursion to Suiting, 202. — Chinese temple and theatre, 203. — Change of route sanctioned and arranged for, 204 — Return to Kuldja ; Interpreter sent for to Kashgar, 205. — My Tatar hostess, 206. — Farewell visit to Suiting and Chinese officials, 207 188—207

CHAPTER XV.

FROM KULDJA TO THE PASS OF CHAPCHAL.

Caravan travel by horses ; M. Bornemann and his linguistic abilities, 208. — Caravan leader and negotiations; Text of contract, 210. — Departure from Kuldja, 212. — Swollen condition of river; Escort of four, 213. — Jing's pretensions ; Whipping the ferryman, 214. —

CONTENTS. xvii

PAGES

The Hi, and how crossed ; Bivouac, and departure next morning, 215. — Personnel of caravan, 216. — A Sibo village ; Solon colonists, 217. — Reception at Kalmuk encampment, 218. — Shooting grouse, and ride to Damarchi ; Taranchi inhabitants, 219. — Hospitality at Damarchi ; Ride along the Uzun-Tau Mountains, 220. — Arrival at gorge of Chapchal, 221 208 — 221

CHAPTER XVI.

THE TEKES VALLEY.

First Sunday iu camp, 222. — Lodging in Kalmuk tent, 223. — Breakfast menu, 224. — Review of month, 225. — My servant Joseph, 226. — Lack of efficient interpreter, 227. — Altitude and temperature of Chapchal ; Visit to Kalmuk tents, 228. — Pass of Chapchal ; Defile of Sua-Chow ; Geology of Uzun-Tau, 229. — Altitude of Pass, 230. — Descent to Booghru ; Cattle of the Kalmuks, and dogs, 231. — March from Booghru and butterfly hunt, 233. — Manchu larking on horseback; Caution against spirit-drinking, 234. — Arrival at Khanakai, 235. — Taking photographs; Departure to the Tekes; its rise and course, 236. — Impracticable ford at Geelan and detour to Narin-Kol ; Welcome at Russian picket, and help of Cossacks, 238. — Fording the Tekes, 239. — Another night on river bank; Awakened by Lama's prayers; Departure for Muzart defile, 240 222—240

CHAPTER XVII.

UP THE MUZ-TAG MOUNTAINS.

Orography of Tian Shan system, 241. — Abundance of glaciers, but few rivers, 242. — Sources of our knowledge of the Tian Shan; the Muz-Tag range, 243. — Fording the Urten Muzart, 244. — Absence of Kirghese ; Entrance to Muzart defile ; A quiet Sunday, 245. — Remains of stone fort; Starting-point of Shepeleff; Kostenko's route, 246. — Departure from Shattoo ; Inscription on granite rock ; Forest zone of birch, fir, etc., 247. — Beauty of path, 248. — Butterfly- hunting on horseback, 249. — Arrival at Udungei ; Chinese picket, and Kalmuk tents ; Kalmuk food, 250. — Osman Bai's orthodoxy as to food, 25 1. — Departure to Khan-Yailak, 252. — Visit to last Kalmuk tent; Comparison of koumiss of Orenburg and farther east, 253. — Kalmuk photographs and anthropological remarks, 254. — Dress, numbers, and administration, 256. — Russian education of Kalmuks ; their intellectual capacities, 257. — Buddhist objects of worship; Kalmuk women, marriage customs, and morals, 258. — Features of nomad life ; Chinese picket, 259. — Willingness of Jing and Tor-jee to proceed ; other two attendants sent back, 260 . 241—261

b

xviii CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XVIII. OVER THE MUZ-DAVAN, OR ICE PASS.

PAGES

From Khan-Yailak to bed of Muzart, 262. — View of Archali-Karachat glacier ; Camp at Toghri-su, 263. — Stir at daybreak, 264. — Basin receiving five glaciers, 265. — Photograph of the " White Moun- tain," 266. — Kaulbars' remarks on Jalyn-Khatsyr glacier, 268. — Ice-tables and stony roads; View of mer-de-glacc^ 272. — Ice- hummocks, crevasses, grottoes, and pinnacles; Difficulties of pack animals, 274. — Fall over precipice of horse and baggage ; Mazar-bash ; former hermitage, and fort, 275. — Soldiers' pro- visions and horses hauled up an ice-cliff, 276. — Scrambling down the Muz-davan, 277. — Road over rocks and stones, 278. — From Mazar-bash to Tamgha-tash; End of glacier, and superb ice- cavern ; Hiuen Tsiang's description, 279. — Frequent loss of horses ; Good fortune of first European in completely crossing the Pass, 281 262 — 281

CHAPTER XIX.

DOWN THE MUZART VALLEY.

Tamgha-tash station unapproachable; Waiting for baggage, and supperless to bed in the open, 283. — A remarkable day, 284. — Arrival next morning of Osman Bai ; Military insignificance of Tamgha-tash, 285. — Departure southwards; A marble monu- ment, 286.— Fine view from Balguluk ; Professor Bonney's note on Romanovsky's geological map ; Kungei Ala-Tau range ; Rocks east, south, and west of Issik-Kul, 287. — Shaping of mountains, and suggested periods of earth movements, 288. — Alexander chain compared with Swiss Oberland ; Complicated orographical structure at Kara-Kol watershed, 289. — The Ferghana mountains and their characteristic rocks extending to Pamirs ; Geology of route southwards, 290. — Three lines of orographical folding; Continuation of author's route, 291. — Accident in fording river ; Camera washed away ; Attendants' pursuit, and success in recovering baggage, 292. — Arrival at Kailek, 294. — Breaking into a post-station, 295.— To Tuprak ; An afternoon's shooting, 296. — Pur- chase of an eagle, 297. — Joseph's taxidermical masterpiece, 298. — Departure from Tuprak, and pursuit of partridges ; Narrow escape from homicide ; Arrival at Muzart-Kurgan, 299 . 282 — 299

CONTENTS. xix

CHAPTER XX. FROM MUZART-KURGAN TO AKSU

PAGES

Lodging at Muzart- Kurgan, 300. — Objections to Customs examination ; Advice concerning Chinese officials, 301. — Standing on one's rights, 302. — Visit of Customs official, 303. — Inspection of M«zart- Kurgan; Nimrod's cunning, 304.— Route continued over undulating tableland ; Dust columns, 305. — Kizil-Bulak ; Route southwards over curious geological formation, 306. — Messenger from Aksu; Stay at Auvat, and ride to Jam, 307. — Southern view of Tian Shan, 308. — Khan Tengri, visible 100 miles off, 309. — Glaciers and crests westwards ; From Jam to Tash-Lianger, 310. — Death of a horse and dog, 311. — Thermometrical observations between Kuldja and Aksu ; Arrival of Madamin Bai from Russian Consul, 312. — A minatory letter, 314. — Escorted into Aksu, 316 . 300 — 316

CHAPTER XXL

CHINESE TURKISTAN.

Chinese Turkistan; its boundaries and varying names, 318. — The Sin Kiang, or New Frontier; its eastern boundary and latest carto- graphy, 319. — Its dimensions, mountains, rivers, and lakes, 320. — Surface and communications, 322. — The country described as approached from Peking by northern route, and by southern route, to Hami, 323. — Hami ; its history, European visitors, and present condition, 326. — Roads from Hami to Kobdo, Barkul, and Guchen. 329. — Urumtsi ; its history and situation as headquarters town of the Sin Kiang, 330. — Route vid Toksun to Pishan and Turfan, 333. — History of Turfan ; its sacred mountain and latest European visitors, 334. — Karashar and its Kalmuks, 337. — Kurla, Kuchar, and Bai, 338 317—339

CHAPTER XXII.

OUR STAY AT AKSU.

Aksu ; its history and area, 340. — Our arrival and lodging, 341. — Intricacies of Chinese money; shoes, tengas, and cash, 343. — Visits from merchants ; Distribution of Scriptures, 345. — Reward offered for Dalgleish's murderer, 346. — Aksu bazaar, 347. — Riding round the town ; its buildings, cemetery, and mode of burial, 348. — Repair of camera, 349. — Visit to Chinese Aksu ; Reception of official visits, 351. — Inspection of prison, 352. — Preparations for departure, and payment to Osman Bai ; Presents to Monkey-face and Tor-jee ; Letters despatched to Kuldja. 354. — Cart-driver taken before the magistrate, 35$ 340 — 355

xx CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XXIII.

THE SOURCES OF OUR KNOWLEDGE OF CHINESE CENTRAL

ASIA.

PAGES

Meaning of " Chinese Central Asia," anciently " Cathay," 356. — How regarded by Greeks and Romans ; Ptolemy's " Serica " ; Chinese historians, 357. — The Buddhist pilgrims, 359. — Arabian knowledge of the " Seres " ; Armenian and Persian intercourse with China, 360. — Nestorian and Roman missionaries, 361. — Marco Polo, 362. — Benedict Goes; Translations from Chinese records and from Tchuen-yuen, 364. — Russian contact with Mongols ; Missions to Peking and Yarkand, 368. — Advances to Sungaria and Kashgar, 370. — Prjevalsky's journeys in Mongolia, 371. — Renat's map of Sungaria, 372. — English explorers in Sungaria, and in Tarim basin, 374. — Forsyth's missions to Kashgar, 375. — Later travellers in Chinese Turkistan, 376 356—376

CHAPTER XXIV.

FROM AKSU TO MARALBASHI

Two roads to Kashgar; Northern through Ush-Turfan, followed by Younghusband, 377. — District of Ush-Turfan; its people and capital, 378. — Aksai valley and Kirghese nomads, 379. — Our de- parture by southern route, 380. — March to Chinese city of Aksu, 381.— Fording the Janart river, and shooting birds, 383.— Ride to Sai-Aryk, 384. — Stormy weather, 385. — Night travel through Chilan to district of Maralbashi, 386. — Sunday at Yaka Kuduk ; A Chinese official, 387. — Undesirable companions, 388. — March to Chadir-Kul, 389. — Its birds and buildings, 390. — Pheasants and Podoces, 391. — Scriptures at Turn Chuk, 393. — Arrival at Charwagh, visited by Biddulph for shooting, 394. — Antiquities between Charwagh and Maralbashi, 395 . 377—395

CHAPTER XXV.

THE INHABITANTS OF CHINESE TURKISTAN.

Chinese Central Asia and its inhabitants; Manchus in Hi and Pelu towns, 396. — Kalmuks in Sungaria and Karashar, 397. — Kirghese ; their anthropological characteristics, diseases, morals, and occu- pation, 398. — Scarcely subjected by Chinese ; Turkish inhabitants of plains, 405. — Their alleged Aryan descent, 406. — Lack of physical strength; The Turks hard-working and honest; Weak

CONTENTS.

points of urban character ; Lack of baths ; Abuse of narcotics, 408.— Sexual depravity, 409. — Piteous story of a female prisoner, 410. — Degradation of country through Muhammadanism ; The Chinese, "strangers and foreigners"; their mandarins and sol- diery, 412. — Chinese garrisons and traders; Total population, 414 39fr-4t4

CHAPTER XXVI.

FROM MARALBASHI TO KASHGAR.

An early welcome, 415. — Call on the mandarin; The bazaar, 416. — Visited by mandarin, 417. — Photography, and consequent excite- ment, 418. — The fortress and its features, 420. —General character of forts in Chinese Turkistan ; Maralbashi, a strategical position ; Road southwards to Yarkand, 422. — Dolan shepherds and their underground dwellings, 423. — Departure from Maralbashi, 424. — A trot to Urdaklik, 425. — Caught in a quagmire, 426. — A neigh- bourhood of wild-boars and deer, 427. — March to Faizabad; Visited by Chinese general, 428. — Features of the town, 429. — Limits of Kashgar district; March to the Yengi-shahr, 430. — March through fortress to old town of Kashgar, 431 . 415 — 432

CHAPTER XXVII.

OUR STAY AT KASHGAR,

Ride to Russian Consulate, 433. — Ascent of city wall, 434. — M. Nicolas Petrovsky and his Consular staff, 435. — His hospitality and intel- lectual tastes, 436. — Miscarriage of letters ; Visited by local authorities, 437. — Taking photographs, 438. — Trade of Chinese Turkistan and its ramifications, 439. — Calls and presents from the Tautai, 440. — Visit to prison, 441. — Three homicides, and instruments of torture, 442. — Uncertainty as to route ; Thoughts of Kafiristan, 444. — Preparations for Karakoram route ; Osman Bai paid off, and three carts engaged ; Lack of antiquities in Kashgar, 446.— Ruin of Aski Shahr ; Present town of Kashgar ; Visit to shrine of Khoja Aphak, 447. — Rifled grave of Yakub Khan, 449. — The Mausoleum, 450. — The Golden Mosque ; The Consul's photography and Muhammadan prejudice, 451 . 433— 45 l

Chronology of Chinese Central Asia 452

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS IN VOL. I.

PACE

fording the muzart-nin-su (See page 291) .... Frontispiece

MAP OF CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA, WITH AUTHOR'S ROUTE . . To face I

GENERAL L. M. ANNENKOFF, CONSTRUCTOR OF THE TRANS-CASPIAN RAILWAY 1

UZUN ADA, THE WESTERN TERMINUS OF THE TRANS-CASPIAN RAILWAY . 24

KODJ STATION IN THE AKHAL TEKKE OASIS 26

A BROKEN ICE-HOUSE ON THE PERSIAN FRONTIER 27

THE STATION AT GEOK TEPE 28

TEKKE FORTRESS OF GEOK TEPE, SHOWING THE HOLES IN WHICH THE TUR- KOMANS HID THEMSELVES FOR PROTECTION FROM THE RUSSIAN MISSILES 29

RAILWAY STATION AT ASKHABAD 30

GARDEN OF THE MILITARY CLUB, ASKHABAD 31

THE TOMB OF CAIN AT SARAKHS 33

STATION AT DUSHAK, THE FARTHEST POINT SOUTH, WHENCE THE RAILWAY

MAY BE CONTINUED TO THE AFGHAN FRONTIER 34

NEW BRIDGE AT MERV 35

THE PRINCIPAL GATEWAY OF BAIRAM ALI 42

A RUSSIAN OFFICER NEGOTIATING WITH TURKOMAN CHIEFS J TURKOMAN- WOMEN WITH SPINNING WHEEL; A TEKKE BEAUTY IN FESTAL ARRAY 44

RESERVOIR AT BAIRAM ALI, OR OLD MERV 48

RAILWAY DEPOT AT AMU-DARIA 50

BATCH AS, OR DANCING BOYS, WITH MUSICIANS AND SINGERS • • • 53

CEMETERY, AND MODE OF EXECUTION IN BOKHARA AND KHIVA ... 56

OPENING OF THE BRIDGE ACROSS THE OXUS AT CHAFJUI .... 57 BRIDGE OVER THE OXUS, 6,230 FEET, THE LONGEST IN THE WORLI* . 58, 59

JEWS OF BOKHARA 70

THE EMIR OF BOKHARA AND HIS TREASURFR 75

COLLEGE OF DIVAN-BEGGI 78

AT THE HEAD OF THE LINE 8l

LIS! OF ILLUSTRATIONS. xxiii

PAGE A LOCOMOTIVE HABITATION FOR GENERAL ANNENKOFF, PART OF HIS STAFF,

AND SERVANTS 82

LAYING RAILS AT THE RATE OF FOUR MILES A DAY .... 83

MAKING A CUTTING — ASSES TAKING AWAY THE EARTH IN PANNIERS . . 84

CONSTRUCTION OF A BRIDGE NEAR SAMARKAND 87

THE GUR-EMIR, OR MAUSOLEUM OF TAMERLANE, AT SAMARKAND 90

WELLS IN THE " HUNGRY " STEPPE 93

COSTUMES OF CENTRAL ASIAN WOMEN IN THE STREET IOO

A WOMAN OK CENTRAL ASIA AT HOME IOI

THE SOURCE OF THE KOPA 127

A MUD-STREAM AFTER AN EARTHQUAKE 1 32

A CONVICT WITH HALF-SHAVEN HEAD I4I

CHAINS AND SUMMER COSTUME OF A SIBERIAN PRISONER .... I42

A GROUP OF GOLDI CHRISTIANS 1 57

MANCHU SOLDIERS AT SWORD DRILL, AT DURBULJIN, NEAR CHUGUCHAK l66, 167

THE TARANCHI MARKET AT KULDJA 1 75

THE DISCOMFORTS OF A CHINESE INN AT SUITING — PREPARING A ROOM FOR

THE AUTHOR l80

BREAKFAST WITH THE COMMISSARY OF RUSSO-CHINESE AFFAIRS AT SUITING 183

A TATAR WOMAN 206

VAN, A KALMUK KHAN, WITH HIS SUITE, AT BARATOLA .... 200,

ON THE WAY TO THE MUZART PASS — THE AUTHORS CARAVAN . .217

BAGGAGE TENT AND " PALATKA " AT KHANAKAI 244

A GROUP OF MONGOLS IN CHINESE TURKISTAN 255

SUNRISE ON A PEAK IN THE MUZART PASS, LOOKING SOUTH-WEST FROM

TOGHRI-SU 265

THE " WHITE MOUNTAIN " IN THE MUZART PASS, AS SEEN WHEN APPROACH- ING FROM THE NORTH 267

THE DORGA GLACIER IN THE MUZART PASS 272

COMING DOWN THE ICE-CLIFF AT MAZAR-BASH . ... 278

NEARING AKSU — TEA BY THE WAY 315

IN THE PRISON AT AKSU — METHODS OF PUNISHING THE PRISONERS . 353

A KIRGHESE IN " MALAKHAI," OR TRAVELLING HOOD 399

A KIRGHESE BRIDE 4OI

INTERIOR OF A KARA-K1RGHESE TENT 4O3

CHINESE WOMEN AT KASHGAR 4I3

TAKING PHOTOGRAPHS IN THE BAZAAR 419

TAKING A PHOTOGRAPH FROM THE ROOF OF THE CARAVANSERAI. . . 42 1

AT KASHGAR — THE "TAUTAI " ON HIS WAY TO VISIT DR LANSDELL . . 44O

DERVISH SHAH ISMAIL, A KALENDAR OF THE APHAK MONASTERY . . 448

AT KASHGAR— MULLAHS INDICATING THE RIFLED GRAVE OF YAKUB KHAN . 450

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OBSERVANDA.

In proper names the letters should be pronounced as follows : — a as in father ; e as in th^re ; i as in rav/ne ; o as in go ; u as in 1« nar ; and the diphthongs at and ci as i in pr/de.

The consonants are pronounced as in English, save that ich is guttural, as ch in the Scotch lor//.

Unless otherwise stated : —

English weights and measures are to be understood.

Degrees of temperature are expressed according to the scale of Fahrenheit.

The Chinese yatnb (50 taels) is reckoned at jQi 1 55. od. English. „ fael, /tang, or ser of silver is reckoned at 4s. 6d. „

» cash „ ^d. „

â„¢tty ,, 41b.

ji"g ii »i lb.

„ // (1825-25 English feet) „ £ mile „

The Turkish tenga „ 2^. „

Pul „ tV-

The Russian rouble (paper) „ 2*. „

» verst „ f mile „

„ pound „ 14-43 oz. „

» /^ 11 36 lbs. „

The Indian rupee „ is. 6d. „

INTRODUCTION.

I PURPOSE, in the present work, to treat in general of Chinese Central Asia, and, more particularly, my journey from London to Little Tibet.

As to the reasons and motives for the expedition, especially those of a personal character, I might prefer quietly to pass them over ; but they are of interest to some, who like to " begin at the beginning," and experience has taught me that if, on such points, I keep silence, others undertake to speak, but not always so accurately as I could wish.

Thus, one newspaper, during my absence, flatteringly designated me as a " useful and enterprising agent of the Bible Society " ; and I have been frequently connected in a similar manner with the Religious Tract Society ; the fact being that I have never acted as an agent of either, albeit that both Societies, as well as the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge, have. accorded me grants of religious literature for distribution.

Again, another newspaper, during my absence from England, informed its readers that I " went out more than a year ago with a sort of roving commission from the Church Missionary Society," which is so wide of the mark that the Committee felt obliged to decline my two requests for co-operation.

The story of my going is simply this. When proceeding to Russian Central Asia in 1882, I received from the Marquis Tseng letters to the Governors of Hi and the New Dominion,

xxxii INTRODUCTION,

on the remote possibility of my wishing to cross the Chinese frontier near Kuldja. Time did not permit of my doing so ; but I made the remark, I think at the dinner-table of the Governor-General of Turkistan — Colonel Poukaloff, six years afterwards, reminded me of it — how interesting a journey it would be to cross the Tian Shan Mountains to Kashgar, Yarkand, and Khotan. My fellow-guests, who were officers, agreed as to the interest of the journey, but thought it would be difficult to accomplish.

Nine months afterwards, at the Mildmay Conference, I found myself seated next to the Rev. Hudson Taylor, Founder of the China Inland Mission ; and, upon making his acquaint- ance, I asked what they were doing for Western China, and broached the thought of my possibly some day going there through Mongolia. He readily favoured the idea, and offered to do all he could to help me, by advice or letters, or possibly by sending a man to accompany me.

This was kind and encouraging, as Mr Hudson Taylor has been ever since ; but he rather damped my ardour when he went on to say that his Society had a man on the frontier of Tibet, learning the language, and ready to go in when permitted.

What need, then, I thought, to pursue the matter?

On the same day I went to the Chinese Legation, where I had promised to give information about travelling to Kuldja through Russia ; and took the opportunity to inquire about the possibility of going to Mongolia. I learnt that the country was free to travellers, and was promised such help as could be given.

Two days later, on meeting a scientific acquaintance, he said that a journey across Mongolia would present facilities for useful investigations in almost every department of Natural History.

These considerations, with the foregoing, I thought over

INTRODUCTION. xxxiii

on the morrow, and, for the time being, put the matter to sleep. This was in June 1883, when I was busy writing Russian Central Asia.

My diary for the following September and December shows that the idea was not abandoned, however ; nor, on the other hand, in April of the following year, was it growing, for I thought the China Inland Mission had the business in hand. In 1885 I was invited to take temporary charge of St Peter's Church, Eltham, and became so happily engaged in parochial work that I thought my long journeys were over.

Nor was this equanimity disturbed in the following year on receiving a letter from an American named Crossett, lately arrived from Peking, who at Tientsin had been reading my Through Siberia. He thanked me for what I had done for that country, and, on obtaining an interview, intimated that he would like me to go to Mongolia and Tibet, whilst in the coolest manner possible he took out his pocket-book and gave me the names of two or three persons for inter- preters. Not wishing to appear rude or indifferent, I wrote them down, but told him I had no thought of going.

Nor had I ; though in a few weeks things were changed. My temporary engagement came to an end ; the Church Homiletical Society, of which I had been Honorary Secretary, was dissolved, and I had just given up the editorship of the Clergymaris Magazine^ when I received another note from Mr Crossett, this time asking for linguistic information, after which he added, " I am hoping that the way will be opened soon for a pioneering tour into the eastern and northern borders of Tibet from Peking. Will you come out and lead the way?"

Such a bald question, put by a stranger, would ordinarily have cost me but a few moments' consideration ; but on this occasion the thought occurred to me, Is this a call,

xxxiv INTRODUCTION.

" Come over and help us " ? I felt I could not summarily dismiss the matter, and on the following Sunday, after carefully seeking for guidance, determined that I must not say " no " without further inquiry.

On my going next day to Mr Hudson Taylor, he surprised me by showing that I had previously misunderstood him, in supposing that the China Inland Mission had the matter in hand. Their plan, he said, was to go forward stage by stage, establishing a line of missions behind ; and in this way, he said, it would take them many years to reach Western Mongolia. But he thoroughly welcomed the idea of my going as a pioneer, and again offered such help as his Society could render.

I had the good fortune to make the acquaintance on the day following of Mr Ney Elias, who kindly furnished me with a good deal of information on the region in question, and added that, in taking the Scriptures to Chinese Turkistan, I should be doing a work hitherto unattempted.

With such data, then, as had been gathered, I set apart the next day to consider the question of a journey through Mongolia to Chinese Turkistan. I traced in my diaries what had been written thereon since 1882, and then put down what seemed to me the arguments for and against the undertaking.

On the one hand, my friends thought I ought to be settled in a parochial charge. I had the disqualification of not speaking the requisite languages, and prudential considera- tions naturally suggested that my going would mean loss of income, perhaps loss of life, and that, in any case, there would be some danger and certainly many difficulties.

On the other hand, the peoples of Chinese Turkistan, I thought, have not probably a Bible among them, and cer- tainly have never seen the face of a Protestant missionary. Translations of the Bible, or parts of it, are ready in Persian,

INTRODUCTION. xxxv

Kirghese, and Chinese. The country, from a missionary point of view, is unknown ; no other pioneer appears to be in the field ; and I have at least the advantage of previous experience in Siberia and Russian Central Asia.

Both religion and science might be advanced by such a journey, and, for the moment, I am free from definite respon- sibilities at home. If I lose my life no one is dependent on me, whilst certain facilities germane to the situation appear within my reach, and there does seem a definite call to the work. Finally, I asked myself whether Mr Crossett's question was from God, and said, " If it be, and if God will provide the means, not for stipend, but for cost of travel, etc., then my answer shall be, ' Here am I ; send me!'"

This is easy to write, still easier to read, but it was not easy to resolve. It looked like breaking up one's nest for nearly three years, and going forth presumably assured of food and raiment only, besides putting oneself further out of the way of clerical preferment at home. With the murders before me of Stoddart, Conolly, Schlagintweit, and Hayward, the danger to life did not, at this stage, present itself as a trifle, and I fully realised that it was by far the biggest leap in the dark that I had ever ventured on.

To make open confession, however, I had recently read a paper by Dr Cust* on the heroic conduct of the native Christians among the Melanesians ; how, in their zeal to spread their new religion, some of them faced the extreme probability of being eaten by their cannibal tribesmen ; and then the writer drew the contrast so obvious to every one who will honestly think of it, how microscopically little average Christians in England do by way of personal service or self- sacrifice for the spread of the religion they profess to believe and love.

* " How Native Teachers Evangelised Polynesia and Melanesia " {Church Missionary Intelligencer, 1887).

xxxvi INTRODUCTION.

This consideration helped me in resolving to take my leap, and the following shows how all this theory, as some will call it, was converted into action.

I set to work by speaking in private to sundry acquaint- ances and friends who had seats on Committees of our great Church Missionary Societies. The manifesto placed before them was headed, "A Projected Expedition to Chinese Turkistan " ; its object being to distribute Scriptures and other religious literature, and to study as a pioneer the religious condition and needs of the people.

To this was added : " Among the results wholly or partially due to my former journeys, has been the supply by sale or gift of Scriptures, and religious literature, to the number of 1 50,000 copies, to the prisons, hospitals, and people generally of Scandinavia, South-Eastern Europe, Finland, the Caucasus, a large portion of European Russia, and the whole of Siberia and Russian Central Asia. The value of this work has been recognised by the Christian Church and the reports of the Bible and Tract Societies, and similar advantages might reasonably be expected from similar work on the virgin soil of China. A country so little known as Chinese Turkistan presents, moreover, a field of inquiry upon many topics of scientific and general, as well as missionary, interest ; and of these I should make note, as opportunity might serve, for the use of those who may follow."

The manifesto went on to state that to carry out my project thoroughly might take from one and a half to three years. For this I asked no salary, but inquired of various societies whether they could contribute towards what I was advised, and what my previous experience led me to estimate, would be the cost of the expedition.

The individuals spoken to, for the most part, seemed interested, and some — the Archbishop of Canterbury among them — promised support, if possible, in committee. As for

INTRODUCTION. xxxvii

the secretaries of the societies, I found most of them sympathetic, some of them very much so ; but I do not remember one of them who held out hope that I should get from his committee the help I needed.

I continued trying in vain for three months, after which the time to start was rapidly approaching, if, that is, I was to be in Peking by the autumn, as suggested ; so that, had I staked everything upon the great English societies, my pro- jected expedition would now probably have collapsed.

But light was arising in another quarter. One of the first persons I had communicated with was Dr Robert Needham Cust, wrho more than once, on meeting me in the street and elsewhere, had casually asked, " When are you going on another journey ? " volunteering on one occasion the remark, " I shall ask the committee of the Bible Society to send you somewhere," to which I then replied neither yea nor nay.

Now that I had such a journey in prospect Dr Cust suggested my writing, and using his name, to a certain gentleman who had given large sums for the distribution of the Bible in Africa, and who perhaps might be taken with my scheme.

I did so, and received for reply a suggestion that I should approach Mongolia from the west, getting my funds from the same sources as for previous journeys ; whilst my correspon- dent, for a simultaneous work, should send £200 to the China Inland Mission for the visitation, with appropriate Scriptures, of the eastern half of Chinese Turkistan. Subsequently, he enlarged his proposed area to the whole of Mongolia, and sent the £200 to Mr Hudson Taylor.

At this time, and previously, I had several interviews with Mr Hudson Taylor, and I have a pleasant recollection of the patience with which he listened and entered into my plans. Once he was ill, always he was busy, on one occasion just returned from a long journey, on another wanted here and

xxxviii INTRODUCTION.

there after a public meeting, but ever treating my little affair, not as something to be got rid of as quickly as decorum would allow, but as if he thought it of importance.

In making arrangements it was necessary to look far ahead, and, before a penny was promised, he wrote in faith and hope to China as to who should accompany me, and also asked whether the American Bible Society at Shanghai would be likely to aid in my project

This elicited a kind reply from the Secretary of the Society in New York, who wrote thus to Mr Taylor : —

" If in the present case the explorer were unknown or inexperienced, there would be reasons for hesitation and delay, which do not now exist, but Dr Lansdell's journey through Siberia has already given proof of his qualities, and exhibited a measure of philanthropy which we admire and honour."

After which he went on to say that his Board had authorised the expenditure of 500 dollars a year, for a period not exceeding three years, for the exploration of Central Asia and Tibet, with a view of promoting there the circula- tion of the Scriptures, particulars to be learned from their agent at Shanghai.

This reached me on July 23rd, after I had come to the conclusion, three weeks before, that my way to Chinese Turkistan through Peking was blocked. Whether I could enter from the west, in the following Spring, was doubtful, and might remain in abeyance, 1 thought, till September, when I had been invited to speak of my journeys at a Convention in Dublin ; and I wondered whether anything to the point might transpire there.

Accordingly, when the time came, I stated "publicly in Dublin my willingness to go another journey ; and at Old Connaught, in the drawing-room of the Archbishop of Dublin, with whom I had the privilege of staying, I remarked,

INTRODUCTION. xxxix

at a private lecture on my travels, that I thought my amended scheme would cost a thousand pounds ; but I did not invite contributions. An Irish rector's wife, however, volunteered to give ioj., and afterwards Lady Cochrane sent a cheque, saying that of the needed thousand pounds she should like to give one, which was the first brick of my building really laid.

But things did not look very bright Mr Hudson Taylor had tried to cheer me by saying, " Don't be discouraged ; the devil will be sure to hinder " ; and I confess to having carried sometimes a heavy heart. I had met with many disappointments and discouragements, and was beginning to wonder whether I had mistaken my call, insomuch that, on October 25th, I went to Mr Hudson Taylor with the question: —

" Why should / go at all ? Why not let the two men we have in view, instead of accompanying me, go by themselves, and leave me out of the question ? "

Had he humoured this mood I think I should have been willing, at this period, to withdraw ; but he thought it decidedly better that I should go, and offered me half of the £200 sent to him for Mongolia. To this I mentally added what looked, at first sight, a promise of £300 from the American Bible Society; resolved to submit the matter to a few persons of means likely to be interested therein ; and if sufficient promises for the remaining £600 were not forth- coming before the end of November, then to interpret it as God's will that I was not to go.

Accordingly I corrected the manifesto to altered circum- stances, mentioned one and a half or two years instead of three, a greatly shortened journey, and an estimate of expenses cut down by half. On November 8th I began to send out letters, not in hundreds and thousands to the public generally, but three or four at a time to names from my address book.

xl INTRODUCTION.

And now the tide completely turned. Within a week I heard from Mr Blackstone, of Illinois, who had from the outset warmly encouraged my scheme, and now promised £100. The post, one morning, brought two letters of curiously opposite character. In the first, the writer spoke of the contemplated journey as "serious and perilous," to which he could not contribute ; whilst in the second, the late Mr R. C. L. Bevan " thought the enterprise very hopeful and feasible," and promised £100.

And so cloud alternated with sunshine, and I was wonder- ing on the 24th whether the £130 lacking would come. On the 28th arrived a note from the Archbishop of Canterbury, inclosing a " cheque of nominal value only, but as a token of good will," which helped to raise my spirits, if not greatly to increase my pile, whilst my friend Miss Peache and the late Mr Allcroft sent £50 each, so that by the 29th I regarded the matter as pecuniarily settled, and began to think of a day for the start. I was afterwards found to have been precipitate in reckoning on £300 from the American Bible Society, for they now felt obliged to limit the arr^unt to £200; but the late Sir William Mackinnon came to the rescue with £50, and smaller sums made up the total to £1,000 10s. 4d.

How a few hundred pounds in addition were raised for an attempt to travel in Tibet proper will be found stated in Chapter XLVIII., on "Plans Concerning Lassa." Mean- while, my purse being made up, I learned from the Russian Embassy that, in the event of my wishing to travel by the Trans-Caspian railway, it would be wise on my part, instead of proceeding there direct, to go for permission to St Petersburg, which accordingly I proceeded to do.

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA:

A RIDE TO LITTLE TIBET.

CHAPTER I.

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW.

The start, and Author's forebodings, i.— Delayed arrival at Berlin ; Visit to the Chinese Embassy, 2. — Custom-house at Wirballen ; Arrival at St Petersburg, and objects of visit ; Request to travel by Trans-Caspian Railway, 3. — Calls on Sir Robert Morier and M. Pobedonostzeff ; Acceptance by Emperor of Through Central Asia, 4. — Promise of help from Minister of Interior; Scientists visited ; Social gatherings, and dinner at Embassy, 5. — Visit to M. Vlangali, Assistant-Minister for Foreign Affairs ; Reception by Prince Dondukoff- Korsakoff, and recommendation to General Annenkoff; Visit to the Minister for War, 6.— My programme, 8. — Meeting with General Kostenko, 9. — Departure for Moscow ; Travelling acquaintances, Dr Alexeef and Count Bobrinsky, junr, 10. — Arrival in Moscow, and call on Count Leo Tolstoi, 11. — Departure southwards, 1 2.

IT was a dirty night on February 19th, 1888, when I left London for St Petersburg ; and my spirits were somewhat in harmony with my environment. I did not forget, when planning to enter Bokhara, that Stoddart and Conolly, the last Englishmen there, had been put to death by the Emir, and now I was medi- tating Kashgar, where Schlagihtweit had by order of vol. 1. 1

2 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the ruler been killed. I will not say that I had any- thing so strong as a foreboding that such might be my own fate ; but I acted as if it were to be, and so arranged my home affairs as if I were never to return, hoping, of course, for the best.

Friday night is the time for packing off the Indian mail. This delayed us at Cannon Street ; and the rough state of the Channel after a hurricane increased the delay, so that we arrived at Calais to find the express gone, and the ground covered with snow. Slow trains, and waiting at Cologne, brought me early on Sunday morning, instead of Saturday, as planned, to Berlin. This was to be my first halting-place, for here I hoped to see Hung Ta-jen, the Chinese Minister.

Going on Sunday evening to St George's English Church, where they pounced upon me to preach, I was not a little surprised to see in the porch, and afterwards at the service, a Chinaman in full costume and pigtail, who, though not a member of the Legation, gave me sundry pieces of minor information anent thereto, and I drove there on Monday morning by appointment.

A change had been made only a few weeks previously in the Chinese diplomatic arrangements. Formerly, the Minister who resided in London looked also after Chinese interests at St Petersburg, and the Minister at Paris had Berlin under his charge. Now London and Paris are under one diplomatic Minister, and Berlin and St Petersburg under another.

I therefore showed his Excellency what had been given me by the Minister in London, told him what I received when going to Kuldja before, and said that as I was now about to pass through Russia, to which

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW. 3

he had been recently accredited, I begged of him also a letter, and if possible an open one. An open letter, he observed, was not necessary — my passport would be sufficient — but he would give me a letter to the Governor-General of Hi. The ambassadorial seal on this, he said, would be useful, and it should be sent to me on the morrow.

On the day following the promised letter arrived by the hand of an English-speaking servant, and I left the Central Hotel in Berlin the same night for Russia. My luggage, having been booked through to St Petersburg, had preceded me, and I wrote from Cologne to the officials of the Russian Custom-house explaining why my baggage would appear without its owner.

On arriving, therefore, at Wirballen, I was expected, and met with nothing but smiles and every possible assistance, which was very gratifying, seeing that I had more than 3 cwt of luggage in eight cases, the extra carriage of which had already cost me more than half the price of my ticket. Besides these eight packages I had sent 19 others by sea to Batoum. Thus my total luggage weighed already 1 6 cwt.

Most English travellers rush from the German frontier to the Russian capital without breaking the journey. I did the same three times without knowing what I lost thereby. On the present occasion, after travelling through the night, I determined to stop for a day at Pskoff, which I did, and arrived at eight o'clock on the following morning at St Petersburg.

The objects that took me to the Russian capital might be termed diplomatic, administrative, and financial. The first thing to be asked for, and that of prime importance, was permission to travel as far

4 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA

as possible towards Kuldja by the new Trans-Caspian railway. Not that this was the only way of reaching Kuldja from St Petersburg, for there was the summer route of rail, river, and road by which I proceeded there before, and the post route, through Orenburg and the Syr-daria province ; but on both these routes frost and snow were now supreme. Accordingly, a few hours after my arrival, I called at the British Embassy, and found Sir Robert Morier ready to help in every way.

I had, besides, the advantage of acquaintance with his Excellency M. Pobedonostzeff, the Chief Pro- curator of the Holy Synod. To this gentleman I drove next, and received a welcome. He had seen my Through Central Asia, then recently published ; and, the Emperor having intimated his pleasure to accept a copy, I told the Procurator I had brought it to St Petersburg.

The proper person through whom the presentation should have been made was the Minister for Foreign Affairs, but M. Pobedonostzeff volunteered, without further ceremony, to send the copy direct. I for- warded it to him that afternoon ; it was sent to the palace in the evening, and at midnight his Majesty- sent to M. Pobedonostzeff a kind message of ap- preciative thanks. As for my needed permissions, M. Pobedonostzeff handed me over to his assistant, M. Sabler, the Secretary to the Synod, and on the morrow we set to work with a will.

I called, alone, on M. Pleve, Assistant to the Minister of the Interior, who, if I did not remember him, speedily showed that he had not forgotten me ; for, opening a drawer, he drew forth my portrait, which I had presented to him when, six years before, he was

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW, 5

in the police department. He was good enough to say that he appreciated my works on Russia as of scientific value, promised me another open letter such as I had been furnished with on previous occasions, and added that he would write to the several depart- ments and do all he could to forward my wish to travel by the new railway.

I had also to call on sundry persons — scientific, literary, and otherwise — for introductions, information, and advice. Dr Bretschneider, who spent many years at the Russian Legation in Peking, has published several interesting books on the geography of Central Asia as known to the Chinese in mediaeval times. I was glad, therefore, to call upon this savant and sinologue, and talk of some of the places I was about to visit.

Running hither and thither left little time for sight- seeing or social intercourse. I was present one evening at a meeting of the Imperial Geographical Society, which was well attended, for public meetings in Russia are rare; but it struck me as tame and somewhat gloomy by comparison with the gatherings of our Geographical Society in London.

On another evening I dined at the British Embassy, where Sir Robert Morier was rejoicing in an excep- tionally able Russian-speaking staff. Amongst the party I met Lord (now the Duke of) Fife and Colonel Herbert, the Military attache, a Mr Harford, and some others. Sir Robert promised to get me official letters to the Russian consuls at Kuldja and Kashgar, and to add one from himself to Governor- General Rosenbach at Tashkend. From various other sources also promises of introductions were received, and my way was becoming clearer, though I dared

6 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

not yet take for granted that I might do all I wished in proceeding by the Trans-Caspian railway.

A few days after seeing M. Plev6, I had taken a letter from M. Sabler to M. Vlangali, the Assistant- Minister for Foreign Affairs, who asked me to write definitely what I wanted, and he would then try to get me the needed permissions. Accordingly, in addition to the railway journey, I asked that, if it should for any reason seem desirable, after entering Chinese Turkistan, for me to return to Russia instead of proceeding south to India, I might have the option of crossing the Pamirs into Ferghana.

Some thought that in this I had asked a hard thing and had better withdraw it, since no Englishman had, up to that time, been allowed so to do ; and no answer coming for a day or two, I feared this might partly account for the silence ; but soon it seemed that the carriage for the Minister of War blocked the way, inasmuch as he had not answered M. Plev£'s letter.

M. Pleve had, however, heard favourably from Prince Dondukoff- Korsakoff, then Lieutenant of the Caucasus, as to my crossing the Caspian, and as the Prince happened to be staying, as I was, at the Hotel d'Angleterre, I waited on him. He had lately been reading my Through Siberia, gave me an ex- cellent reception, and promised all I asked for; told me whom to see at Tiflis ; and for General Annenkoff, the constructor of the Trans-Caspian line, he gave me his card with the following words thereon: "Prince Dondukoff-Korsakoff, Aide-de-Camp Gdniral, recotn- mande chaleureusement a la bienveillance et aux soins du Gdndral Anncnkoff, Dr Lansdell si connu par ses voyages, et ses sympathies pour la Russie."

I then went all in a glow to General Obrucheff, the

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW. ?

Chief of the Staff of the Minister for War, but was received at first, I thought, with martial rigour and without a smile or anything that savoured of the milk of human kindness, being formally and coldly asked what I wanted. Having briefly replied, I was told

GENERAL L. H. ANMENKOFF.

that I must make out my line of march, since it might be necessary in some places to divert my course. I had never before been asked to do such a thing, and did not know whether to suspect a trap wherein to catch and defeat my plans, or the furnishing a clue whereby my steps might be watched,

8 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

I was conducted through room after room and passage after passage of that huge building the "Etat Major" to what I now suppose was the head office of the Asiatic section, where, among several officers, I was seated at a table with paper and pens that revived the long- passed anxieties of college examinations.

I thought it would not do to be too general in my statements, lest vagueness should leave room for suspicion that I was keeping something in the back- ground, nor too minute, lest, if I did not hereafter keep exactly to the programme, I might be charged with breaking faith. So I wrote as follows —

"St Petersburg, ^*"f ? f3n/' 1888. March 6th,

" I expect to leave St Petersburg to-morrow, or soon after, for Moscow ; to stay not more than a week (for banking arrangements, etc.), then proceed direct to Batoum ; from Batoum to Tiflis (stay 2 or 3 days), then to Baku and Askhabad (stay 1 or 2 days, perhaps), Merv (2 or 3 days), Charjui (1 or 2 days, to get, if possible, fishes, pheasants, etc., for specimens), Bokhara (about a week, to see places once again that I visited in 1882), Samarkand (3 or 4 days), Tashkend (about a week, to pur- chase various necessaries), Vierny (2 or 3 days, to receive my luggage, sent forward from Batoum), Kuldja. I hope to arrive at Kuldja by May 1st (n.s.), and at Urumtsi by June 1st (n.s.), there to meet my English interpreter into Chinese. If news reaches me that he arrives earlier, I shall hasten forwards ; if I learn that he will come later, then I need not go through Turkistan quite so fast. I should like to arrive at Yarkand by September ist, and cross the

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW, 9

Himalayas, and it is only in case of accident, sickness, or something important and unforeseen, that I should wish to return to Russia from Kashgar to Ferghana. "(Signed) Henry Lansdell, D.D."

This declaration had now to be translated into Russian by one of the officers present, and I mean- while had time to breathe and observe, though my spirits were not high. Every face was strange to me, but one officer in a general s uniform spoke as if I were not entirely unknown to him. He was short in stature, sallow in complexion, and I could not make out whether I was speaking to one who had power to decide the matter, or whether he was collecting and preparing information about me to submit to a council, presumably sitting in the adjoining room.

Presently something revealed his name — Kostenko — and my thermometer began to rise. Could it be, I asked, the author of The Turkistan Region, whose book, whilst I was writing Russian Central Asia, was scarcely out of my hands ? It was the very same, and I saw one whom, quite apart from the present business, it gave me the greatest delight to meet, for we were fellow- writers upon the same ground. He recognised me as such, knew my volumes, told me he was chief of the Asiatic section, and volunteered that if I got into any difficulty I might telegraph to him.

My spirits now were jubilant, and spread to the officers near; for when they became acquainted with my projected journey one of them said they were quite excited. What was better, they brought in Captain Grombchevsky, who had recently made the journey from Kashgar to Khokand, and who gave me much pertinent information.

io CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Looking round, I noticed on the wall a map of the region about the head-waters of the Oxus, and com- prising much of the territory I was going to. It was newer and better than any I had seen, and like a spoiled child I wanted it, and asked where a similar one could be purchased. I was told that " it was not on sale," being, I suppose, " secret and confidential." Some whispering, however, went on between one and another, and then I was asked to accept a copy, which I congratulate myself upon possessing.

It was presently intimated that the letter desired would be given, and thus before I left the " Etat Major " I had received all I had asked for, and more than all, for General Mirkhovitz favoured me with an invitation I gladly accepted for the morrow, to meet Madame Mirkhovitz, and see from the windows of the House of the Staff a parade of troops before the Emperor.

On the day following, March 9th, after taking lun- cheon with Princess Lieven, who had heard of my being in St Petersburg, and sought me out at the Bible Society, I left for Moscow.

u A good name " Solomon affirms to be better than riches, and a fellow-passenger in the train seeing mine on the label of my portmanteau, forthwith claimed acquaintance on the ground that when recently in England he was to have had an introduction to me.

This little incident gave me a pleasant travelling companion and occasional interpreter ; my fellow- passenger being Dr P. Alexeef, who had lately been studying the temperance question in America, and in England had heard of me at the Church of England Temperance Society.

On being addressed by another passenger in the

FROM LONDON TO MOSCOW, n

same carriage, a young soldier in uniform, I asked where he had learned such excellent English.

" Near Edinburgh/' said he.

" Why, then," I replied, "you must be one of the sons of Count Bobrinsky ? " to which he answered in the affirmative, but appeared rather surprised till I gave my name, and mentioned my having met his family in London.

The young Count and some of his sisters were on their way to a wedding in the family of Count Leo Tolstoi, upon whom Dr Alexeef proposed that we should call to talk upon matters teetotal.

Accordingly, after a somewhat uncomfortable night in a second-class sleeping carriage, we reached Moscow, and I accompanied my friend to the study of the novelist, who recently had taken up the temperance crusade and was trying to work it in Russia, where, notwithstanding the crying need of it, the movement has reached only to the stage at which it remained some years in England, when silly people dismissed the matter with a laugh or a sneer, but failed to recog- nise their lack of philanthropy and self-denial in doing nothing to oppose a curse which ruins so many.

Understanding that I was going to Chinese Turki- stan to circulate the Scriptures, the Count said he envied my work and would gladly go too, but for his wife and a dozen or so of children, some of whom we presently met round the family samovar ; and thus finished a pleasant visit to the house of this celebrated Russian nobleman.

On the next day I preached at the English Church, and on Monday was no more successful than I had been in St Petersburg in making banking arrangements for Kashgar. I determined, therefore, to push forward on

12 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the Tuesday, but news came that the line southwards was snow-blocked.

The same afternoon, on the introduction of Madame Alexeef, I drank tea with Princess Mestchertsky, and afterwards had some hours of quiet rest, for, sooth to say, the incessant strain upon mind and body of the previous three months, in preparing, planning, and packing, had sent me away from London much fatigued. Then, what with the excessive cold, con- tinued worries, and the water of the capital relaxing my physical powers still more, I reached Moscow so weak and weary that I requested Dr Alexeef to pre- scribe for me.

He, however, said there was nothing organically wrong, that my condition was merely the result of fatigue and change of atmosphere, and that with less strain recovery would soon follow, which, I am thankful to say, was speedily the case.

CHAPTER II.

FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN.

Railway dangers ahead; Pleasant fellow-passengers, and offers of hospitality, 13. — Arrival at Kursk ; Arrival and enforced stoppage at Kharkof, 14. — Former visit to town prison, 15. — Departure from Kharkof, and arrival in Crimea, 16. — Improved weather at Sevastopol ; Sunday service, 17. — Departure for Batoum ; H.B.M. Consul ; Departure across Caucasus, and arrival at Tiflis ; Sir Drummond Wolff and Col. Stewart ; Presentation of introductory letters, 18. — Dr Radde and M. Hedjouboff ; Departure from Tiflis to Baku, 20.

WHEN ready to journey southwards to the Crimea, there were afloat ugly rumours and warnings of trains being stopped and snowed up for days together, to the great inconvenience of passengers not provisioned for such little emergencies. I therefore looked to the commissariat, and as a concession to my jaded condition indulged in a first-class ticket, which took me away from Moscow at all events in comfort, a snowstorm notwithstanding.

One of my fellow-passengers was a pleasant Russian lady, daughter of an ambassador, who in the course of the day not only offered help in translation, but before we parted invited me to pay her a visit at her country house. This generously offered hospitality was of a piece with that I had received on the same

i4 CHINESE CEN1RAL ASIA.

line on a previous occasion, when happening, near Tula, to meet Prince Dmitry Obolensky ; and it is illustrative of the kindness with which educated Russians hasten to receive an English stranger.

From Moscow Tula is only 120 miles distant, but this took us at least six hours to accomplish. We passed through a uniform undulating plain, traversed by low hills with little wood, and no remarkable scenery, but having boundless cornfields and meadows, for the province is one of the best cultivated and most populous in the empire. The chief railway stations are Podolsk and Serpukhov, the latter possessing a large river traffic, some tanneries, and calico works.

We were timed to arrive at the station of Tula about six o'clock in the afternoon, and allowed a quarter of an hour for .refreshment, after which I set about making myself comfortable for the night. In this there was every prospect of success, for I had the compartment all to myself, and it was furnished in a manner than which we have nothing better, if so good, in England. Our next important stopping-place was Orel, passed in the middle of the night, and early next morning I awoke to find that we were at Kursk, but only about 350 miles from Moscow, the train being shunted into a siding because the road some few stations beyond was blocked by snow.

On arriving at Kharkof, which was only 1 50 miles from Kursk, but took about eight hours, it was an- nounced that no trains were yet running southwards, which did not greatly disappoint me, for I was glad of an enforced stoppage, and drove to the Hotel de 1' Europe.

My numerous packages were somewhat suggestive perhaps of commercial pursuits, since, on asking for a

FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN. 15

room, the waiter took me to a huge, grandly furnished apartment, which I said was too large.

" But," said the man, evidently mistaking me for a commercial traveller, " will you not want to exhibit your patterns?"

He then appeared quite disappointed at not letting his show-room, and landed me in a much less preten- tious chamber, where I determined on the morrow to read, write, and rest.

Kharkof has a population of 160,000, of whom I presume an appreciable number must be Germans, since I remember, on a previous visit, attending the Lutheran Church and calling upon the pastor. It was during that same visit, on my way to the Caucasus, that I first made the acquaintance of Prince Dondukoff- Korsakoff. He was at that time Governor-General, and gave me permission to visit the town prison and distribute copies of the Scriptures.*

* My notes, taken on the spot, record "352 prisoners in 48 rooms, including 22 cells. Cells of political prisoners (of whom there were 29 under trial) are large ; food and accommodation better than in the case of criminals ; and politicals have more than one hour a day for exercise. The amount of daily bread for each prisoner is two and a half pounds, Russian. Kvas, or small beer, is allowed ad libitum? "

In the punishment ward were five men, who a few days previously had attempted to escape, by making a ladder of their bedding with which they scaled the wall close to a sentry, who was also under arrest. One of those under correction came to the door, and through the hole in it spat at us defiantly.

Corporal punishment was not allowed, the dark cell being the severest form of correction, and even that might not extend beyond six days. The sick list stood at 52, but I am not sure whether this might not have represented the remnants of a former regime, inasmuch as they spoke of none now being there for a longer term than three years.

My notes mention no library or books for the prisoners. Probably I found none, and as a friend of mine had offered to bear the expense, I asked the General if he would allow me to place a copy of the New Testament in each room of every prison under his charge. He thanked me for the proposal, entered readily into my plans, asked me to write

16 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

I was attempting nothing of this kind in Kharkof on the present occasion, and did not leave the hotel until the next evening, when it was announced that the line farther south was cleared.

Kharkof is at the head of three main routes to the Sea of Azof, to Odessa, and the Crimea ; but no trains had been running south for several days. It was not surprising, therefore, that on reaching the station con- fusion prevailed. I asked for a ticket for Sevastopol, and, without looking carefully at what was given me, handed it to the baggage clerk, whereupon it was discovered only just in time that my luggage was registered for Rostoff, and put in a train which was on the point of departure. This would have separated me and my belongings, on our respective arrivals, a trifle of 400 miles, and perhaps delayed me a week, so that I was not a little thankful to get the mistake rectified.

At length I found myself in a through sleeping carriage to the Black Sea. The distance to be traversed was nearly 500 miles, through a dull, flat, snow-covered country without a station of interest until we reached Baghchiserai, a name which calls to mind the days when the Tatars of Central Asia pushed their conquests into Russia, and made also the Crimea their own.

my wishes and directions, which he promised to see carried out, and then volunteered, for some reason I did not understand, to publish my letter in the Journals.

It only remained, therefore, to calculate the number required. He was Governor-General of six provinces or more, in which were six Government or capital towns, with 150 rooms in each for what we should call county prisoners, besides which there were 200 rooms for Govern- ment prisoners. Altogether, therefore, I sent to him on the following day, for his prisons and hospitals, 2,700 tracts, pictures, and journals, and ordered to follow 1 ,500 New Testaments.

FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN. 17

Although the line south of this was clear of snow, the train was six hours late ; but we were entering a milder climate. My seven previous visits to Russia had all been in summer, and I had looked forward with pleasure to seeing St Petersburg in its winter dress. Perhaps in my fatigued condition I did not do so to advantage ; at any rate experience compels me to pronounce one winter visit enough, and it was a relief, when awaking the next morning but one in the Crimea, to be able to look once more upon Mother Earth, whose face had been snow-veiled all the way from Calais, now 3,000 miles in the rear.

Abundance of mud and water covered the plains, but as we approached the lofty rocks of Inkerman surroundings improved, and the air of Sevastopol was so balmy as to render agreeable a drive through the dry streets in an open carriage with one's fur coat thrown open.

Happening to pass our Consulate, and thinking it was Saturday morning, it occurred to me to call on Captain Harford, with whom I was acquainted, and offer to conduct a service on the morrow. I. was a day out in my reckoning, however, for it was already Sunday, but it was early, and whilst I went to the hotel and made preparations, notice was sent round by Mr Grierson, the British Pro-Consul, with the result of gathering a congregation of about 20 persons, who met at the Consulate.

An English .service is a rare thing in Sevastopol, there being no chaplain, and it was entered into with a zest that spoke of appreciation. I was, however, told of one stumbling-block to a larger attendance — namely, that English steamers come into port and employ labour on Sundays ; for some London firms,

vol. 1. 2

18 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

who would not dream of opening their offices or employing their clerks in the "City" on a Sunday, do permit their captains when abroad to do so. It is proper, however, to add that in some cases the captains themselves are at fault, and act thus in direct contravention to their employers' orders.

On the third day after my arrival at Sevastopol, Mr Grierson, having laden me with such things as I had need of, accompanied me with his wife and little ones to the ship. We left the port about eleven in the morning, and by five in the afternoon reached Yalta, which I had seen before, so that I was not tempted to land ; but on reaching Kertch on the following afternoon, I found time to call on our Consul, Mr Hunt (whom I had met at Odessa in 1882), and to telegraph my coming to Batoum, where we arrived, after a run of about 36 hours, early on Friday morning, March 23rd.

The first person to meet me was my servant Joseph, who had come from London by steamer with the heavy baggage. Soon after Joseph came Mr D. R. Peacock, at that time the Vice-Consul, and whose brother I had met in Siberia. If pleasure had been my pursuit, Mr Peacock would have prevailed upon me to visit a native (I think Ghurian) prince at his castle in the mountains, to whom he had mentioned my coming. But I felt obliged to content myself with a view of Batoum, its picturesque mountains with verdant slopes, its naphtha stores and oil waggons, and the native bazaars.

Next morning we started for Tiflis, and having reached our destination late on Saturday evening, we put up at the Hotel de Londres, where I was glad to find my friend Colonel Stewart, and Sir Drummond

FROM MOSCOW TO THE CASPIAN, 19

Wolff and suite, on the way to take up . their respec- tive appointments in Persia. Like myself, they were seeking information as to the movements of steamers on the Caspian ; and finding that I had four days to wait, it seemed better to remain at the capital than to go forward to Baku.

The number of Englishmen at Tiflis was less than I had seen on the previous Sunday at Sevastopol, and they have no Sunday service in English, so we had one in the hotel ; and I visited in the afternoon a German Bible-class, attended by a dozen youths and conducted by a Swede named Hoijer, to whom I had an introduction from Finland.

I had also a dozen introductions to other persons in Tiflis. On the chance of my meeting Russian officers with whom they had served on the Afghan Boundary Commission, Sir West Ridgeway and Colonel Holdich had given me letters, and these brought me into contact with Colonel Paul Kuhlberg, Chief of the Topographical Stafif, who seemed to cherish a pleasant recollection of his English comrades, and by whose help I got some excellent maps of the Trans-Caspian region.

He kindly invited me to meet General Zelenoy, another celebrity in connection with the Afghan Boundary Commission, and General Jdanow, Chief of the Etat Major, at dinner. These gentlemen were much interested in my projected journey to Chinese Turkistan, and wished to bespeak a paper from me, if I came back that way, at the Tiflis branch of the Imperial Geographical Society.

Prince Dondukoflf-Korsakoflf, Lieutenant of the Caucasus, had desired me to call upon his locum tenens, General Sheremetiefif, which I did, and I was

20 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

also successful in finding at home Dr Radde, the founder and curator of the excellent and well-arranged Tiflis Museum.

Dr Radde was kind enough to give me sundry hints as to what I might hope to do in collecting specimens of fauna, and I was indebted also for various attentions and assistance to M. George Hedjouboff, an Armenian, to whom I had an introduction.

I took occasion before leaving Tiflis to purchase of the Bible Society a few copies of the Scriptures in Hebrew. I also found an agreeable photographer in M. Yermakoff, who accompanied me to make a trial of my apparatus, and developed for me the negatives with such success as gave me hope for the future, when, beyond the Caspian, I should be thrown on my own resources.

We left Tiflis a little before ten on Friday night for Baku, expecting to cover 340 miles in 17 hours — not a furious rate of travelling, but quick in com- parison with the four days required for the journey in 1882, when, before the line was open to the public, I travelled the distance in a horse-box. That journey, however, gave opportunities for seeing the country which darkness now denied.

For the last 50 miles of the way the train runs along the coast of the Caspian, for the most part through a desert, in the midst of which we reached Baku, about three o'clock on Saturday afternoon.

CHAPTER III.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

"Wanted" by the Police-master; Call on the Governor, 21. — Com- forts on steamer to Uzun Ada; Landing at railway terminus, 22. — Trans-Caspian stations to oasis of Akhal Tekke, 25. — Kizil Arvat, 26. — Arrival at Geok Tepe, 28. — My coming to Askhabad expected, 30. — Continuation of journey to Dushak, 32. — Arrival at Merv, 35. — Hospitality of Colonel Alikhanoff ; Modern Merv, 36. — Oriental carpets and embroidery, yj. — Alikhanoff s successful administration ; Quiet and order of Panjdeh, 38. — A visit to Old Merv, 39. — Ruins on site of Merv ; Arab and Persian remains, 41. — Russian annexation of Merv, 43. — How brought about, 44. — Liberation of slaves, 46.

THERE was little to detain us at Baku, for I had previously seen its oil wells and the temple of the fire-worshippers. Notice came, however, to the Grand Hotel that, my passport having been sent to the authorities, the police-master required to see me. Now I had heard of this man, rightly or wrongly, that he was obstructive to English travellers, and apt to give them trouble ; so I thought it better to take the wind out of his sails by paying a visit to his chief, which I accordingly did, and received from the acting Governor, M. Osit Augustovitch Beneslavsky, a welcome, and an invitation to dinner.

As Sir Drummond Wolff and Colonel Stewart, more-

22 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

over, were expected to arrive in the afternoon and start at night by steamer, they were also to be invited. " Ask them to come," said the Governor, " sans ctrdmonie — en petit costume de voyage." Neither of the travellers, however, was thus to be seduced in the midst of a journey to something like a dinner-party. I had therefore to go alone, and found myself the only guest.

The local authorities were very obliging in providing on the steamer for the comfort of the English travel- lers. The Ambassadors party was proceeding south to Resht, and most, if not all, of the berths being taken, some Russian passengers were, I believe, invited to give up to the foreigners the accommodation which, by priority of arrival, they had secured, whilst, in my own case — proceeding east — I was accommodated, thanks to the Governor's introduction, with a cabin for three. The passage across the Caspian, in good weather, takes only 20 hours for the 195 miles between Baku and Uzun Ada, where we arrived on Tuesday at noon.

In my Russian Central Asia four chapters are devoted to Turkmenia, so that for the general charac- teristics of the country it may here suffice to say that the train runs, from the Caspian to the Oxus, through a desert that is enlivened by the four oases of Akhal, Attek, Tejend, and Merv.

Uzun Ada, or " Long Island," is the terminus at which the traveller arrives on the Caspian littoral, and a more desolate landing-place I never beheld. Siberia is a paradise to it. Nevertheless, one fellow-passenger, looking on the bright side of things, observed to me that less than ten years ago there was nothing on the island but sand, whereas now there is a harbour, a rail- way station, reservoirs of naphtha, va church, hospital,

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 23

doctors residence, and a few houses, these last having been imported ready-made from Russia.

Not a blade of grass could I see, though it was now the beginning of April, and two cows, wandering amongst the water-carts near an enclosure behind the station, suggested the reflection that, under similar circumstances in England, they might be " run in " by the police for going about " without any visible means of support."

The train was not to start for six hours, but carriages were sent to the shore end of the jetty to take pas- sengers and luggage, there being no lack of Tatar porters. I had heard at Tiflis of the prodigious strength of these men, and at Baku one of them gave proof of it by carrying on his back to the ship four of my packages, weighing 2 J cwt, and then taking in his hand a bag of \ cwt more.

At the station I fell at once on my feet, and received the first of a succession of kindnesses and acts of attention, that continued in Asiatic Russia till I passed beyond the frontier.

Showing the letter of the Minister of the Interior to a military officer on the platform, he bowed himself " votre serviteur" as he meant to say ; but, his French being rather shaky, he substituted "votre domestique" and immediately assigned me for my three days' journey a small compartment to myself, nor would he allow me to be displaced when the conductor of the train wished to turn me out in favour of some of his friends.

We started about six in the evening, the train crossing an embankment, about three-quarters of a mile long, which connects the island with the main- land, and then plunged into the desert, the chief

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 25

feature of which is sand, sand everywhere, without water or food for man or beast.

At the first station, Mikhailovsk, at the head of Balkan Bay, which was formerly the starting-point of the line, and whither passengers were brought in craft of light draught from Krasnovodsk, we reached the Uzboi, one of the old beds by which the Oxus entered the Caspian. The railway skirts this channel for about 30 miles.

At the next station, Mulla Kara, we passed from sand to an alluvial plain, and at the fourth station, Bala Ishem, large tuns on wheels reminded us that enormous quantities of water were distilled from the brine of the Caspian at Mikhailovsk, and sent along the line to the waterless districts, whilst at the same place we were also reminded, by naphtha tanks or trucks, like steam boilers on wheels, that the fuel of our engine was not coal or wood, but petroleum refuse, which is brought to Bala Ishem from oil wells in the neighbourhood.

Near this place is a salt marsh, some 15 miles long by half as broad, and also a salt station on the branch line between Bala Ishem and the naphtha wells. The night was passed in crossing this alluvial desert, which was without inhabitants, even at the stations, other than the railway officials. It is also without water, except at the little village of Kazandjik, where there is a potable spring and a little verdure.

And thus we went on for 140 miles to Ushak, where the small station is surmounted by a tower of observation, and where we arrived at sunrise. Here the Muhammadans got out of the train to wash themselves and pray, whilst the lark rose in the heavens, as the poets will have it, to sing his hymn.

26

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Soon afterwards, we entered the oasis of Akhal Tekke.

The first place of importance we stopped at was Kizil Arvat.

At the next stopping-place, Kodj, about 20 miles from the old fort of that name, neither inhabitants nor water were visible, but the station was built of stone, with a substantial tower of architectural pretensions,

KODJ STATION IN THE AKHAL TEKKE OASIS.

and presenting a good specimen of a Trans-Caspian station of fourth-class rank.

From Kizil Arvat the railway runs nearly in a straight line past half a dozen stations, through a country not indeed desert, but bare of trees.

At Bami signs of cultivation were observable ; the ground was scantily covered here and there with spring verdure, and Turkoman children brought to the train handfuls of deep red tulips, whose fragrance

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

27

was somewhat like that of the lily of the valley ; but the villages, dependent on rivulets at the foot of

the mountains, were remote from the line and few and far between.

28

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Passing three more stations brought us to the vicinity of Durun, where there are a very unpretending telegraph station, something between a Russian izba and a Turkoman tent, and a ruined Tekke village of mud houses, which gave a good idea of the local native dwellings, the domed roofs being so constructed probably for coolness, as are the huge domes erected

THE STATION AT CEOK TEPE.

over the ice-cellars, several of which may be seen in approaching the Persian frontier.

Soon after midday we arrived at Geok Tepe, where the train stopped long enough to allow of my scaling the walls of the famous fortress whose defenders offered such stubborn resistance to Skobelefif. The wall in some places is completely broken down, but enough remains to show what crude ideas of fortifica- tion the Turkomans possessed.

Imagine a bank of earth 30 feet thick, finished on

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

29

the top with breast-high inner and outer walls, and running for nearly three miles round a quadrilateral area like that of Hyde Park or Blackheath, but with- out their verdure, and you will have some idea of the proportions of the " fortress " of Geok Tepe. Many

TEKJCE FORTRESS OF GEOK TEPE, SHOWING THE HOLES IN WHICH THE TURKOMANS HID THEMSELVES FOR PROTECTION FROM THE RUSSIAN MISSILES.

holes were still visible, made perhaps by Russian shells, or dug by the besieged as hiding-places from the balls of the besiegers ; but there was not a structure or building of any kind within. I saw there only a few camels grazing on the scanty herbage kept alive by a brook

3°

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Beyond Geok Tepe the train passed through a somewhat richer country, and about four in the after- noon we reached Askhabad.

Askhabad is the capital of the Trans-Caspian province, a place, it is said, of 10,000 inhabitants, including perhaps the soldiery, for whom there is a military club and garden.

The market-place is exposed to the full glare of the sun, but affords the visitor an opportunity of studying

RAILWAY STATIOft AT ASKHABAD.

Russian and native life together, whilst not far distant is a Persian ice-cellar, built of rammed mud in the form of a cone, such as I have not observed in other countries. My coming to Askhabad was expected, officially — probably, privately — certainly ; for on the evening of my departure from Tiflis M. George Nicolaivitch Milutin, entering the hotel and seeing my name on the guest-board, wondered if it were that of the author whose book he had read.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

3'

Seating himself at a dinner-table near me, and scanning my countenance hard, he presently ventured to introduce himself, saying that he should invite me to drink wine with him, only that he had read that I was an abstainer, and telling me that he had been engaged on General AnnenkofTs staff on the Trans- Caspian railway.

On learning that it was for that very region I was to start in an hour or two, his friendliness at once rose

GARDEN OF THE MILITARY CLUB, ASKHABAD.

to the emergency. " I will telegraph," said he, " to my friends to assist you " ; and, then and there, he drafted a despatch to Colonel Alikhanoff and Count Mouravieff at Merv, to General Annenkoff and others of his friends, named Kulkevitch and Sabouroff, saying, " The celebrated traveller Lansdell is leaving Tiflis to- night for the Trans-Caspian region ; please help him." This unexpected and unsought kindness, in addition

32 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

to other introductions, bore ample fruit, and I found awaiting me at the Askhabad station Colonel LevashofT, the acting Governor, who had brought to meet me a countrywoman, Mrs Harfeld, married to a Russian officer on the line, and a Finnish gentleman, M. Carl Constantinovitch von Schultz, Controller-in-Chief of the Trans-Caspian railway.

According to my official programme written at St Petersburg, I expected to stay two or three days at Askhabad, and they had prepared accordingly ; but I afterwards determined to push on, and so my friends did the next best thing by giving me a capital dinner at the station, which is of first rank and European proportions, and sped me forward, telegraphing my approach to Colonel AlikhanofT at Merv.

About eight miles from Askhabad the train passes a fine old ruined mosque at Anau, and over a tongue of sand to Giaurs, which may be regarded as the end of the Akhal oasis.

Then we traversed an alluvial desert to Baba- Durmaz, between which and the next station, Artyk, lies, somewhat to the north, a salt tract. Over a portion of this the train passes, and enters beyond Artyk the Attek oasis.

Stretching along the Persian mountains as far as Sarakhs, the Attek, though not so long as the oasis we had traversed, is greener and less bare of trees. Its chief town is Luftabad, and there is a considerable ruin at Shilgan, whilst the ardent lover of antiquity who will make a pilgrimage to Sarakhs will be shown the tomb of Cain.

The sixth stopping -place beyond Askhabad is Dushak ; at present only a station with a few dwell- ings for the officials and workmen and a pile or two

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

33

of firewood, but which has a certain importance in British minds because, situated at 400 miles from

THE TOMB OF CAIN AT SARAKHS.

the Caspian, it is the nearest point to our Indian railways, the distance from Dushak to the Afghan

vol. 1.

34

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

frontier being only as far as from London to Doncaster.*

The line had run from the Caspian nearly straight to the south-west, but at Dushak turned at a sharp angle to the east, leaving the mountains in the rear,

~±T&<

I

STATION AT DUSHAK, THE FARTHEST POINT SOUTH, WHENCE THE RAILWAY MAY BE CONTINUED TO THE AFGHAN FRONTIER.

and passing from the Attek oasis to that of the Tejend.

* On my way homeward through India I ran up to Quetta and pushed on to New Charaan, beyond the Khojak tunnel, to the extreme end of the Indian line, on the southern frontier of Afghanistan ; whence to the northern frontier just mentioned is about 500 miles, or the distance from London to Aberdeen.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

35

At last, after passing over an uncultivated district for nearly 50 miles, towards the station Karab-Ata, we entered the oasis of Merv. Here daylight found us on the morning of the third day from the Caspian ; and at length, about half-past eight, we steamed into Merv station.

The commercial and native parts of the town are situated on the left bank of the Murghab, where also

NEW tfRIDGE AT MERV.

is the railway station and its buildings. On the right bank is the Turkoman inclosure called Kaushid Khan Kala, within which are a dozen houses of brick, occu- pied by civil and military officers, a temporary church, and barracks.

The two portions are connected by a wooden rail- way bridge, 150 feet long, of about a dozen spans, the woodwork resting on piles driven into the sand ; and across the bridge I drove in a station cab or

36 CHINESE CENTRAL AS 7A.

phaeton through the wide opening in the fortress walls to the house of Colonel Alikhanofif, the Gover- nor, or more accurately Nachalnik, or Chief of the District.

The Colonel was busy in his garden, in which he said he took great delight, though it had not long been planted. Then, taking me indoors, he pointed out that all his bedrooms were occupied, but that I should be welcome to such accommodation as he could offer, which was to be that of the best room in the house by night and the run of the premises by day.

Needless to say I thankfully accepted his hospitality ; for though Merv possesses a third or fourth class establishment, decorated in front with the Persian Lion and Sun, and dubbed " The Imperial Hotel," yet I was only too pleased to stay for a day or two with a man of whom I had both written and read, and who played so important a part in bringing about the submission of the Mervis, and figured so prominently during the labours of the Afghan Boundary Com- mission.

The next acquaintance I made was Colonel Mouravieff, who took me off the same morning to the Turkoman bazaar, or market, then being held, where from 3,000 to 5,000 persons assemble twice a week, to deal in horses, asses, camels, and sheep.

We mounted the walls of the fortress, which is similar in character to that of Geok Tepe. After lunch we visited the town that has sprung up since the foreign occupation. I was much struck with the large number of drinking-places, the stock-in-trade of the distilleries, brandy, beer, and wine shops being more than double

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV.

37

that of all the grocers, pastrycooks, bakers, butchers, and vendors of lemonade.*

One has a good opportunity to study certain features of native life in the caravanserais or native inns of Merv, where the men appear in sheepskin coats and hats, and occasionally mounted on good Turkoman horses, but more frequently on donkeys, their baggage being carried on Bactrian camels. I was delighted to find in the shops of Merv in April melons of the last season, some of which we took home for dessert to the Colonels house.

Here I observed that the Colonel, Moslem though he was, provided wine for his guests, whilst abstaining himself. It seemed also somewhat paradoxical to hear him zealously advocating the building of a fine cathedral at Merv. " We have so many thousand roubles," he said, with the air of an enthusiastic member of a church building committee, "but we must have more, in order to erect such a building as will excite the admiration and respect of the natives."

To a connoisseur in carpets and embroidery my room was a perfect museum of Central Asian handi- work. The long wall facing the windows was covered in Oriental fashion with an immense Persian carpet, as was the broad divan running along it, whilst suspended

• The figures were given me as follows, in roubles : —

Manufacturers

205,000

Distillery

10,560

Brickmakers

62,070

Brandy shops

29,000

Bokhara manufacturers

150,000

Wine shops .

82,000

Smallware shops .

80,260

Beer shops .

45.700

Iron shops .

12,320

Eating-houses

52,800

Timber shops

36,000

Tea-houses .

19,760

Transport Company

35>ooo

Inns

60,500

Grocers

30,670

Baths .

18,000

Pastrycooks .

8,500

Caravanserai

22,500

Bakers Butchers

18,000

Lodging-houses

7,800

12,500

Seltzer and lemonade .

4,000

Ko

ubles

1,002,940

38 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

from the cornice all round the room was an ornamental hanging of tassel work, specially made for the Colonel by the Sariks of Panjdeh. At the end where I slept the wall and divan were adorned with exquisite Tekke carpets and tent bands, with abundance of cushions of Bokhara velvet, displaying various specimens of Central Asian silk embroidery.

In excellent agreement with all this, each of the upper window curtains consisted of a rich Bokhariot saddle- cloth embroidered in silver and gold. The floor was covered with Persian carpets, and over the Colonel's study door were hangings of Indian embroidered silk.

But more interesting than these was their owner, who, fortunately for me, spoke French, and gave me a good deal of information concerning the affairs of Turkmenia. An Asiatic by descent, a Muhammadan by birth, and of the same religion as those over whom he rules, Colonel Alikhanofif appeared to be the right man in the right place. In a surprisingly short time he had reduced to order the most turbulent and blood- thirsty of the tribes of Central Asia. Not more than four or five cases of robbery a month, he told me, came before him, but sometimes as many as five or six murders — the frequent result of quarrels. He gave me several instances of his rough-and-ready fashion of administering punishments and rewards, by which he seemed to have quieted and gained the goodwill of the people.

In harmony with the foregoing was the testimony of a Russian Colonel who dined with us, and had ridden on the morning of the same day from Yulatan, on the Murghab, in the direction of Panjdeh, where he was administering a district of 30,000 persons, who quite recently were robbers and thieves by profession, but

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 39

amongst whom he was living as the only European, and undefended, save by eight native djiguitts, or mounted attendants.

This Colonel told me that at Panjdeh he had entered some ancient catacombs of the fire-worshippers, dated back vaguely to the time of Zoroaster, one of them having receptacles for 200 bodies. Of these receptacles he saw 40, and showed me a sketch of the entrance to one of the catacombs.

The great event of the morrow was to be a drive to Old Merv, which for a traveller to omit is as culpable as to visit London and not see Westminster Abbey. For this the Colonel kindly ordered a carriage and mounted attendants, arranging that we should lunch on the way at the historic dwelling of Yusuf Khan, one of the four who negotiated the submission of Merv ; and word was* sent to his mother, in whose tent the critical meeting was held, that an Englishman desired the favour of an interview.

I was accompanied by Count Mouravieff and M. Guillaume, who was teaching the Colonel the French language, and in other ways making himself useful. It was a bright spring morning when we started, and pleasantly warm. A drive of two or three hours brought us to the aul or collection of tents of Yusuf, and whilst lunch was being prepared I looked about the premises and picked up information.

Presently we were regaled with a dostarkhan — that is, a tablecloth — and with something on it in the shape of meat, as well as (though tell it not in Mecca!) wine and vodka to drink. Lemonade, too, and tea were served, the tables being turned for the nonce, the Muhammadan drinking wine and the Christian water.

In the course of conversation it transpired that

40 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Yusuf Khan, though only 20 years old, had under his authority 2,000 "souls" (that is to say, men, for the Russians do not reckon women as " souls "), with the rank of a Russian captain and pay of ,£120 a year. His mother, Gur Jemal, widow of Nur Verdi Khan, was enjoying a pension of ^100 a year, and, in addition, she had received from the Emperor handsome presents of clothing and jewels.

Arrayed in these, she received us after lunch, and our eyes were dazzled by a khalat, or dress of silver and gold brocade, edged with sable fur. Her waist- band was of gold and turquoise, and she wore a necklace of precious stones, as well as numerous rings ; whilst her head was covered with three handkerchiefs.

Her age was said to be 47, but, like all Turkoman women thus far advanced, she appeared very much more — 60 at the least, though her good looks had not quite left her. She had less to say than to show, behaved with becoming dignity, and on her thanking us for our visit, I felt glad to have been favoured with admission to the presence of a Turkoman lady.

She is considered rich, which Alikhanoflf accounted for by her possessing a canal of water. " When," said he, " the Russians wished to reward me I received the first-class Cross of St George " (of which, by the way, I fancy he is the only man in the empire to possess two), "but when thfe Turkomans wished to recompense Gur Jemal they gave her not only acres of land, which are plentiful enough, but a canal of water to keep them fruitful."*

* Hence we see the propriety of Achsah asking of her father as dowry, not only a field, but springs to water it. Joshua xv. 18, 19 ; Judges i. 14, 1 5.

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 41

We had still some few miles to drive, our coachman being not too nice in the choice of his roads, where road indeed there was none. Our party was now increased by the Khan and several more djiguitts, who rushed forward to show and clear the way. Hitherto I had suspected that those words in the "Burial of Sir John Moore" —

"The sods with our bayonets turning,"

were a poet's trope, but on our way they were very closely illustrated ; for, coming to a ditch deepened by recent rains, the djiguitts dismounted, turned their swords into spades, and speedily levelled the ground for our vehicle to pass. On nearer approach to the ruins we were provided with saddle horses, and in this way viewed the lions.

No less than four cities have flourished on or near the site of what is now called Old Merv. The most ancient is called Giaour Kala, and is said to date from the time of Zoroaster.

The ruins of the city next in antiquity are called Iskander Kala, after Alexander the Great, who made it one of his colonies. To this Merv Christianity was introduced about 200 a.d. It subsequently became the seat of an archbishop, and in 420 was made a metropolitan see. Of these two cities little now re- mains above ground except some high walls, though one cannot but surmise that the spade might bring to light some antiquarian treasures.

The third of the cities alluded to was built by the Arabs who conquered the place in the seventh century, and of this Merv, now called Sandjar Kala, there re- main two or three monuments indicative of considerable greatness.

42

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

The structures mentioned are the chief survivors of the Arab city. In the sixteenth century the Persians

'j < â–  r

took the place and built a city, the walls of which, flanked with semicircular towers and possibly measuring

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 43

from two to three miles round, are now called Bairam Ali, and here it was we found the ruins most plentiful, though few, if any of them, could be called beautiful. A distant view of Bairam Ali presented to the visitor a gateway of fine proportions, though looking very dilapidated from the rear. On approaching the principal entrance to the citadel, the flanking towers were seen to be of sun-dried brick, as were also the remains of the lesser mosque.

Our host and chaperon, being determined that we should not starve, regaled us among the ruins with sweetmeats and drinks, as well as conversation, so that before I left Merv I was much pleased to have had the opportunity of getting at first-hand, and from various persons who took part therein, sundry pieces of information concerning its annexation.

When England was startled in February 1884 by the telegram received in St Petersburg from Askha- bad to the effect that the Turkomans had declared themselves subjects of the Czar, there was no lack of English newspapers charging Russia with perfidy in having stolen Merv, whilst British hands were full in Upper Egypt and incapable of interfering.

Personally, I never joined in this hue and cry : first, for lack of what seemed to me adequate proof; and next, because from what I had heard at Khiva, less than twelve months before, of the lawless condition of Merv, it seemed to me that the Russians had only to wait, and Merv must fall into their hands without their even asking for it.

The telegram stated that " this decision was arrived at by the Turkomans of Merv because they were assured of their incapability of governing themselves." This, in England, was laughed at, but was strictly

44 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

in keeping with what I had heard from the Khan of Khiva and others in the neighbourhood ; as also with the testimony of the Baron Benoist-Mechin, who visited Khiva six months after me, and, proceeding thence to Merv, found, the Baron said, " such an absence of all government that after our arrival in the month of July we did not hesitate to write to General Chernaiefif it seemed to us that the Merv oasis would submit without fighting at no distant date " — which is precisely what happened a few months later.

Accordingly, I felt unable, from such facts as had come to my knowledge, to adopt and to write upon an engraving which appeared in the Graphic of April 25th, 1885. I* represented the interior of a Turko- man hut, copied from a photograph I lent to the editor, whilst seated around were Turkoman chiefs inserted from another of my photographs ; but there was added also what was not in mine — a Russian officer in the attitude of an envoy exhorting the chiefs to submission, and for this I felt I could not with a good conscience stand sponsor, having no proof that such a conference had ever taken place.

So nearly, however, do truth and error often lie together, that I afterwards learned the editor was right, and so, too, was I.

The true story as to how the submission of Merv was effected was given me as follows : — Colonel Alikhanofif, as is well known, entered the Russian army early in life, became major, and in 1875 was degraded to the ranks for fighting a duel. In 1879 he took part in the Turkoman campaigns, gradually rose again, and in 1882, for a secret reconnaissance of the oasis of Merv, was promoted to a captaincy.

It was not long after this that some Turkoman

A itu&siA* or

n&m**â„¢*^*â„¢*9******

^s% WOMEN, WITH SPINNING WHEEL.— A TEKKE BEAUTY IN FESTAL ARRAY.

Pag* 44*

FROM THE CASPIAN TO MERV. 45

raiders, approaching the Persian frontier near Askha- bad, carried off some natives who were Russian subjects, and their sheep. This could not, of course, be allowed to pass unnoticed, and a volunteer was called for who would undertake the difficult work of proceeding to Merv, and demanding the restitution of both persons and cattle.

Alikhanoff offered to go, and when warned of danger and the possibility of losing his life, he per- sisted, and finally started, but with a certain number of soldiers, whom, if I mistake not, he left on the borders of the Merv oasis, and proceeded alone to play his game in his own way.

It was no part of his commission, so I was told, to broach the question of annexation, but he saw therein a means of regaining perhaps his old laurels, and possibly fresh ones besides. Going from aul to aul, he pointed out to this and the other chief that a great power like Russia could not possibly allow brigandage on her borders, and that the Turkomans would do well to become Russian subjects.

Their apprehension, that they should be obliged to give up their Muhammadanism, he was able to allay by pointing out that his father before him and he, too, though both Russian officers, had nevertheless continued Muhammadans ; and other objections he similarly met, speaking to them in their own tongue.

The lawlessness then prevalent inclined those who had anything to lose to wish heartily for a better state of things. To my own knowledge they had sent three times to Khiva and Petro Alexandrovsk asking for a Governor of their own nationality. But this move had not been successful.

Some of them told Alikhanoff that, if they must

48

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

there certainly was not of room, my only companions being my servant Joseph and a messenger whom Colonel AlikhanofiTwas sending on business to Bokhara, and who he thought might be useful on the way.

The first station eastwards is named after the neigh- bouring ruins, Bairam Ali, where water is stored in a tank alongside the railway, and supplied to the engine from a tun raised on logs of wood. Between this and

RESERVOIR AT BAIRAM ALI, OR OLD MERV.

the next station, at a distance of about 27 miles from Merv, the line enters upon the outer fringe of the most terrible desert, I suppose, crossed by any railway in the world.

This desert is not merely sandy, but of sand entirely, with this additional drawback, that whereas the sands on the coast of the Caspian may by labour be half fixed, those near the Ox us are at the mercy of every wind that blows. They cover the face of the country

FROM MERV TO THE OX US. 49

in barkhatiSy or sickle-shaped hills, varying in height up to 100 feet.

In certain places plantations of bushes suitable to the soil have been placed beside the railway ; but until these grow it seems inevitable that from time to time, after strong winds, the rails will need to be cleared as after a snowstorm. It was by reason of this uncer- tainty as to what might be the condition of the road that our train, though arriving at Merv in the morning, did not leave until nearly midnight, so as to traverse the worst part of the sandy desert by day.

In the grey dawn of very early morning we reached a station significantly named Pesky, in allusion to the surrounding sand. Here we bade farewell to the few tokens remaining of the Merv oasis, after which sunrise found us at Repetek, where was a refresh- ment station, with only brackish water for making tea, and then we plunged in among the sand barkhans. At Karaul-Kuyu no station was yet erected, but a few tents pitched and a hut constructed of railway sleepers, out of which the drifting sand was kept with difficulty.

From the next station, Barkhan — again named after its local surroundings — there was nothing visible all round but sand-hills, whilst a more desolate outlook than we had from the carriage windows in steaming along could hardly be imagined.

Finally, about six miles west of the Amu-daria, cultivation reappeared, with fortified mud houses and walls and trees, the last somewhat larger than those of Merv. We had now entered the oasis of Charjui, a narrow strip of cultivated land belonging to Bokhara on the west bank of the Oxus ; and at ten o'clock we arrived at the station Amu-daria, thus completing a

vol. 1. 4

50

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

journey of 670 miles from the Caspian in 60 hours of actual travel.

The local railway potentate for this part of the line was Prince Khilkoff, who had been kind enough to send to the station General AnnenkofFs carriage to

RAILWAY DEP6T AT AMU-DAR1A.

take me to be the guest of Colonel Nicholas TcharykofiT, the Russian Political Agent (or " Resident," as the English would call him) in Bokhara, who for the moment was laid up here with a broken ankle.

The Colonel spoke English fluently, having received a part of his early education in Edinburgh, and proved

FROM MERV TO THE OX US. 51

to be one of the most polished and gentlemanly Russian officers I have ever met. Though unable to go out, he made my stay thoroughly enjoyable ; and knowing well my writings on Bokhara, he was able to confirm or correct what had been written.

Since my previous visit the Emir Muzaffar-ed-din had died, and had been succeeded by h-is fourth son, Seid Abdul Ahad, of whom it was pleasant to hear that he had introduced certain reforms and improvements, as, for instance, that on coming to the throne he had proclaimed throughout the country liberty to slaves.

Nominally, the slave markets of Bokhara, under compulsion from the Russians, had long been closed ; and when I was at Charjui in 1882 I did not suspect the trade to be going on, but that Persian girls were brought by the Turkomans and sold there I learned after my return to England from Colonel Stewart, who had left Eastern Persia only a few weeks pre- viously, and I thereupon, with his consent, published his statement by way of confirmation of M. Stremou- khoff's letters to the St Petersburg Gazette stating that the odious trade was not completely stamped out in Bokhara.

It was a wise and humane policy, therefore, of the Russians to " advise " (which meant to command) the young Emir not merely to prohibit the trade, but to set at liberty those already bound, and to send special orders to the frontier towns that if any slaves were imported there they should be immediately set at liberty.

Thus, whatever may be said in disfavour of Russia's annexations, it should not be forgotten that she has by this last measure completed the extirpation of slavery from the shores of the Caspian to China.

52 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The new Emir was said to have made other attempts to improve public morality. Mr Curzon, who accom- panied a party of tourists to Bokhara at the time of the opening of the railway, writing afterwards of the Emir's court, says: " Bate has ', or dancing boys, are among the inseparable accessories of the palace, and represent a Bokharan taste as effeminate as it is depraved." *

But Colonel Tcharykoff informed me, in answer to my question on the subject, that the new Emir, instead of providing boys with their tambourine music for the public entertainment of guests as did his father, had forbidden batchas, and ordered them to enlist in the army, though it might be that they were in some cases tolerated in private. f

On my second evening at the Amu-daria, Colonel Tcharykoff gave a dinner, and invited me to meet the officers of the garrison, and Captain Loewenhagen, the commander of the steamer Czar, then in course of construction on the river, and also an English engineer named Boots.

Next morning I went by invitation of Captain Loewenhagen to see the Czar, then lying below the bridge alongside of the barge or lighter she was in- tended to tow, after which Colonel Tcharykoff kindly arranged that I should drive to the town of Charjui, and pay a complimentary call on the native Bek or Governor.

* Russia in Central Asia, p. 200.

t Something similar may be said with regard to prostitution in Bokhara, for, whatever may be done secretly, the Muhammadan law regarding its prohibition remains in force ; and a case having at the time of my visit recently come to light of two parents selling their daughter for an immoral purpose, the father's throat was cut, and the mother shot, which in Bokhara is a common method of capital punishment for offences of this class.

54 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

I was well pleased thus to revisit a place that had interested me exceedingly, six years before, as a frontier outpost, whence one looked into the desert towards Merv, and longed to go but dared not, there being then no security for a foreigner's life.

Outside the citadel, instead of inside, as one would expect, is arranged under a shed a very small park of antiquated artillery, which the Charjui natives, I sup- pose, used to fancy brought them abreast of the times. So ignorant were they on my former visit, that on my thinking to surprise the young Bek by describing our hundred-ton guns and their enormous projectiles, he replied, " Yes, ours are like them too."

This young Bek was a younger brother of the present Emir. At my reception in 1882 he had got himself up in a dandy turban and gorgeous robes, but he lost his post at his fathers death, and his successor had now been summoned to court to take the place of the Kush-beggi's son, whom I had seen when calling on his father, and whom I had mentally dubbed the greatest nincompoop in the kingdom. But this was by no means the estimate put upon him in Bokhara, for the new Emir had taken him to his cabinet as Divan-beggi, or Minister of Finance. Colonel Tchary- koff also spoke well of him, saying that he had been a favourite with the people.

No small indignation, therefore, had been recently aroused when, the Divan-beggi serving a warrant for the sale of the goods of a man who had embezzled money, the culprit shot the Divan-beggi with two bullets, who after lingering 20 hours died, but not before he had expressed a wish that his murderer might not be put to death.

But the Emir condemned the culprit, and handed

FROM MERV TO THE OXUS. 55

him over to the dead mans relatives to do with him what they liked. This was, first, to break his bones ; next, to drag him through the donkey market (some said at the tail of an ass) ; thirdly, to behead him ; and lastly, to cast his body outside the city to the dogs.

On my present visit to Charjui I was received in the usual reception room by the acting Bek and his staff, robed in their gaily coloured khalats and white turbans, -and, after speaking of my former visit, and partaking of light refreshment and sweetmeats, I returned towards the outer gateway between lines of soldiers and a native band.

Being anxious to revisit the prison, and remember- ing that it was under a chamber at the gate of the citadel, I stopped opposite the entrance and asked to be allowed to go in. My gaining admission six years previously was a great triumph, because at Bokhara they had done their best to keep me from seeing their prisons, and I then discovered at Charjui not only a near approach to the " Black Hole of Calcutta,'* but men wearing iron collars, through the ends of which was passed a chain to secure them all together, as well as a long beam, wherein the prisoners' feet were made fast, placed across the centre of the chamber.

This beam I could not help thinking was anciently an ordinary piece of furniture in prisons, similar perhaps to that in which the Philippian jailer thrust the feet of Paul and Silas (Acts xvi. 24), and I was anxious on the present occasion to take a photograph of it.

But the hot and fusty chamber, without windows or ventilation, and measuring only six paces by four, was too dark and the space too contracted to allow of

56

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

operating satisfactorily ; so, putting a bold face on the matter, I asked that the prisoners might be brought out into the yard, and the beam too, which was accord- ingly done, for the police-master looked afraid to refuse. Then I sent to the bazaar for refreshments,

CEMETERY, AND MODE OF EXECUTION IN BOKHARA AND KHIVA.

which the prisoners partook of before they were posed and photographed, much to their astonishment, but on terms they evidently approved.

In addition to the chamber already described, I found, on this visit, another on the opposite side of the citadel gateway, circular in form and measuring

FROM MERV TO THE OX US.

57

four paces across. In the former place were four prisoners chained by the neck together ; in the latter were eight, one of whom had been confined for a year, others for a longer period, together with a boy of 13, whose tale was a pitiful one.

It appeared that his father had struck him, and after- wards the son, finding his parent asleep, retaliated by dealing him a blow which proved fatal. The young parricide had already been in confinement for nearly a

OPENING OF THE BRIDGE ACROSS THE OXUS AT CHARJUI.

year, but I could not make out what they intended to do with him.

On passing the gallows they told me that, previous to the advent of the Russians, they used to hang from five to six hundred Turkomans a year, but that this state of things had now passed away.*

* Among sundry photographs kindly given me by Colonel Tchary- koff is one of the gallows at Khiva, not as when I was there, in front of the Khan's palace, but in a cemetery, with a felon supposed to be

58

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Before leaving the Amu-daria railway station, or depot, as they called it, I attempted a photograph of the curious vehicle in which we were to go forward to Bokhara. We had come by payment as far as the line was available to the public, and the ceremony of opening the bridge had taken place only a few weeks previously, but the rails were placed and trucks were running for another 80 miles.

C J BRIDGE OVER THE OXUS, 46,230 FEET,

Accordingly, Prince Khilkoff assigned me, free of charge, a wooden hut or maisonette, with slanting roof, built on a wheeled platform, and introduced, if I mis- take not, by himself, from his experience in railway

suspended. His foot, however, is suspiciously near a mud wall, on which it looks as if the man might be posing for the photographer; but whether it be so or not, the picture illustrates the primitive character of the Turkistan gallows, consisting simply of two posts and a cross beam.

FROM MERV TO THE OXUS.

59

making in America. It consisted of two chambers about 10 feet long by 9 wide. In each room was a bedstead, a table, and two candlesticks. The walls were lined with striped cotton, the windows and door- ways were curtained, and there was a lavatory inter- vening, so that all that was needed was the Russian samovar and a lunch-basket to enable one to travel as many miles as one pleased.

THE LONGEST IN THE WORLD.

It was in this fashion we crossed the Oxus, whose bed is here more than two miles wide, with many sandbanks/- and occasionally islands pastured by cattle ; whilst so changeable was the course of the current that a place measuring 20 feet deep at the time of the erection of the bridge, and chosen as the spot for steamers to pass, had now silted up to a depth of two feet only.

60 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

The bridge is, I suppose, the longest in the world — so long that, when standing at one end, the other is not visible, especially on such a day as we crossed, with sand in the air blown by a strong east wind, and when the train — going very slowly, it is true — took 26 minutes to go the entire length of the rail- ings. The bridge is constructed lightly of wood, and is not intended to be other than temporary. Tubs of water with pails attached, in case of fire, are placed upon it at intervals, and on the bridge itself occurs the one thousandth verst post from the Caspian.

Immediately east of the river we passed over culti- vated land and through trees to Farab, our first stopping-place, where there was a garden laid out, but no station built ; and this was the usual condition of things till we reached the stopping-place for Bokhara, where, after a heavy rainfall at night, I made my first acquaintance with Central Asian mud, into which, from its slippery character, I fell.

An enterprising Armenian, or Jew, if I remember rightly, had built at the station a small inn ; and here I was called upon by the station-master, Colonel Popoff, and the local engineer, Ivanoffsky, who had heard about me from General Annenkoff, and suggested that I should sleep the remaining hours of the night, and in the morning they would see me started for the town.

CHAPTER V.

BOKHARA.

Drive to the town, 61. — Fellow-guests and repeated experiences; Madame Kleram's hospitality, 62. — Russian ladies in Bokhara, 63. — Espionage and suspicion of natives ; Visit to bazaar and Kalan Mosque ; Photography allowed but suspected, 64. — House of the Ishan and maniacs, 65. — Picture-taking under difficulties ; Visit to Jewish synagogue, 67. — Morning prayers and circumcision, 68. — Jewish oppression in Bokhara, 69. — Visit to city prison, 70. — Lepers' quarter, J2. — Audience with the Emir, 73. — " A bargain's a bargain " ; Political influence of Russian Residency, yy, — Rides about the town, 78.

WHEN the carriage arrived for the nine miles' drive between the station and the town of Bokhara, I recognised it as the calfohe in which, six years previously, I was drawn by two artillery horses from Kitab to Karshi. I recognised, too, one of the postillions, but not the line of country through which we now drove, on a beautiful spring morning. It presented a very different aspect from the parched appearance of the Khanate as I had last seen it in autumn.

On arriving before the grim and sombre-looking walls and towers of Bokhara, we were taken to what was formerly the harem or women's apartments of the house assigned me in 1882, which the Emir had now lent for the Russian Residency, pending the building

62 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

of a suitable dwelling for the Political Agent near the railway station.

The rooms I occupied before, in the principal court, were now inhabited by Colonel Tcharykoff, and in the same court were the treasury, guarded by Cossacks, and the apartments of M. Basil Oskapovitch Klemm, Secretary-dragoman to the Political Agency at Bo- khara, and his family, with whom were staying Madame Klemms mother and sister, Madame Olga and Mdlle Aphekhtine, on a visit from Moscow.

There was also lodging on the premises a Russified native officer and interpreter named Mirbadaleff, whose brother I met at Petro- Alexandra vsk. To complete the list of visitors must be added a Spanish gentleman and his wife, of whom mention had been made by the Governor at Baku as coming after me, who passed under the name of Juan de Chelva, from Valencia, but who were said to be none other than the brother of Don Carlos of Spain, and his wife, the Duchess of Montpensier.

An American fellow-traveller once, inviting me to come and stay at his house, added, " We will take you in, you know, boots and all"; and in this fashion, on my first visit to the Khanate, from the moment of crossing the frontier, I was regarded as the Emirs guest, and supplied with lodging, servants, food, and raiment, and all that was necessary for myself and attendants.

Something of the same sort was observed on this second visit, though I could not at first make out whether I was a guest of the Emir or of the Russian Residency. The lunch brought daily to my room was of native preparation, but in the evening Madame Klemm entertained us at dinner ; and, considering

BOKHARA. 63

the difficulty of getting variety of food for European palates, and serving it in anything like Western fashion, in the midst of a city where foreigners were so few, it was not an undeserved compliment the duchess paid one evening to our hostess in observing, " Comment on mange bien, Madame, chez vous / "

This paucity of Europeans in the town contributed largely towards making prisoners of the ladies of the Residency, for at first their appearance in the bazaar, unveiled, drew together a crowd to admire or to stare, as the case might be, and this was intensified when Mdlle Aphekhtine appeared on horseback with a lady's saddle.

Accustomed, like all Muhammadans, to degrade their wives into drudges or toys, it seemed to the natives a bold thing for women thus to appear in public ; and that these sentiments were not those of the vulgar only, came out on the day of the opening railway fetey when the Residency was decked out with flags and carpets, and the nobles of Bokhara were invited to dine with Russian officers and their wives, perceiving which, one of the Bokhariots, high in dignity, remarked that he thought the Russian ladies were not kept sufficiently in subjection!

On the birth of Madame Klemm's first baby there was much rejoicing and passing of compliments and presents, and the young boy was forthwith dubbed a " bek " in honour of having been born in " Bokhara the Noble "; but I could not gather that, even with the best of Russian desires to that end, there could be maintained anything like family intercourse or intimacy between Muscovite and Bokhariot ladies, so great was the ignorance of the latter, and so little did they understand each other s customs ; added to

64 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

which the natives were intensely suspicious that be- neath every proffered kindness there lay concealed a snare.

To me these indications of suspicion were not new, for so rampant were they at the time of my previous visit, that our deeds and words, and taking of notes especially, were reported to the Emir — an undoubted fact, because some of my retainers one day heard two of the spies reading over what they intended to report. On this second visit I was less tightly in their grasp, but I recognised one of our old spies among three native officials who remained on the premises nominally, and to a considerable extent really, to look after the Emirs guests, but also, of course, to espy.

On the day after our arrival the Kush-beggi, or Prime Minister, sent a Karaul-beggi to show me the bazaar, where things were going on as of old. From the bazaar the Karaul-beggi took me to the Kalan Minaret, said to have been built by the Arabs in the ninth century, and to tire Great Mosque adjoin- ing, out of which I had formerly been hurried in fear lest I should be set upon as an unbeliever, whereas now I was allowed to examine everything at leisure, and even to photograph the Mihrab, or sanctuary towards which Muhammadans pray, and the Sakka- khana, or place for drinking water.

Had I brought a camera six years before, its use would undoubtedly have been forbidden, but now they had seen some of the Russians practising their " black art." This had to some extent softened prejudice, so that when in the mosque one of the natives was about to object, the Karaul-beggi overruled that I should be allowed to proceed. On another day, however, one

BOKHARA. 65

old simpleton, and a great obstructionist on my first visit, after seeing me take a photograph of a tomb in the cemetery, thought the proceeding so mysterious and uncanny that he declared next day it had caused him a sleepless night !

I photographed this place of sepulture because the cemeteries of Bokhara and Khiva give the best illustra- tion that I have seen how those possessed of devils (which in Bokhara would mean the insane) had their dwellings in the tombs.* These tombs are built of clay, the ends presenting the form of a triangle with the sides bent out. Beneath this the corpse is laid, often on the surface of the ground, divested of all clothing, except a turban, and the tomb plastered up. In course of time, however, the heat of summer causes the clay to crack, and, the ends having fallen, disclose the dry bones and skull within. Thus is formed a place wherein friendless maniacs, turned loose to provide for themselves (as I heard they sometimes were in Bokhara), might easily take refuge.

I had heard on my previous visit of the barbarous manner in which the insane were kept and treated, being beaten whilst prayers were read over them from the Koran, and then picketed, like horses, to posts in the yard of a mullah called the Ishan, but I did not then succeed in witnessing it. This house of the Ishan, therefore, was one of the places I asked now to be taken to see.

It was an ordinary native dwelling, presided over by a sort of mullah-doctor, who was treating his insane patients as Si possessed of the devil," an$ was dealing largely in charms for all comers, consisting of extracts from the Koran, placed in receptacles to be worn on

* Matthew viii. 28. VOL. I. 5

66 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the afflicted part of the body. He sat in his room near a window, and outside was a little crowd of ignorant women, many of them said to be childless, who had come to consult this man in their troubles and pay for his nostrums.

This was sad enough, but the sight of the maniacs was pitiable ; the case of one man especially, Akhmet Kul, from Karshi, who had been there six months, and, although chained by the ankles, kept violently jumping and dancing about. Unlike some of the others, when I gave him money or sweets he threw them into the air, and appeared decidedly combative. Near him, chained to the wall, was a youth who had been there ten days only.

" What is the matter with him ? " I asked.

" Oh !" said they, " he has a devil." Whereupon I took from his legs the chains, which they allowed me to purchase.

Passing through a doorway, I found myself in a stable in which was a donkey, and, seemingly as little cared for, two maniacs, one of whom was jumping and crying, the place looking indescribably miserable, and filthily dirty. Sitting outside in the sun, but chained, was an Afghan, and another man of unknown nationality who was evidently vain of his appearance, for, before a small looking-glass, he was continually combing his long and plentiful hair and beard. There were others on a loft who had been there three months, but some only 15 days, and in all cases their stay was intended to be temporary.

Of course I wanted to photograph this sad and strange, but instructive scene, for it connected itself in my mind with further characteristics of those we read of as possessed with devils. I accordingly began to

BOKHARA. 67

put up my apparatus, the Ishan not expressing any objection.

Some of his subordinates, however, did not like it, but being too timid to stop me, and thinking perhaps to escape responsibility themselves, let loose the Karshi maniac, who came dancing before the camera, crying out, as interpreted to me, uWe don't want to be photographed ! we don't want to be photographed!" Upon this I desisted, and, by permission, returned a few days afterwards to accomplish my purpose.

On this second occasion there were ten patients, and Akhmet Kul, a man of middle age who told me he was three years old, made no objection to having his portrait taken, showing the charm he wore on his shoulder, which seemed to be the only thing they were applying for his recovery. Whether he had been beaten I have no record ; some were so treated, and some, they said, beat themselves.

I paid a third visit to the Ishan's house on my last Sunday in Bokhara, thinking to give the poor creatures a dinner of pilau, which being announced to the old obstructionist, he said, rightly or wrongly, the needed quantity of pilau could not be had in the bazaar at so short a notice. {i Very well," I said, ''then we will give them bread and sweets, as before," which accord- ingly was done, much to the satisfaction of the patients ; and the Ishan gave me, I suppose as a compliment, one of his charms or slips of writing.*

On our third day in Bokhara, accompanied by one of the Emirs officials, I revisited the Jews' synagogue,

* The text, kindly translated for me by Sir Henry Rawlinson, reads, "In the name of God, the Most Merciful, the Great and True," after which it appears to continue, " A charm by the truth of the Gospel of Jesus, and what God made to descend upon Jesus. Mary was daughter,' ' etc., the remainder being illegible.

68 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

anxious to thoroughly overhaul a number of manu- scripts and disused rolls of the Law which, six years before, were stowed away in dust and disorder in a loft. But the spirit of church restoration had been abroad — the loft was removed, and the old rolls were now arranged in order in niches in the walls and in cupboards.

On asking for the most ancient, a Torah, or copy of the Pentateuch, was shown, said to have been given by Abdurrahman Kalan, the Israelite patron or founder of the synagogue, four or five hundred years ago. Just before my previous visit a woman in Bokhara had parted with a manuscript I was shown at Moscow on its way to London, and which, when sold to the British Museum, turned out to be of importance both for textual criticism and for illustration of the art of Jewish illumination — to be pronounced, in fact, the most richly illuminated Hebrew manuscript of the Old Testament extant.

On applying a few tests on this second visit, as to the form of certain letters, I could not make out that this oldest copy in the synagogue would be regarded by an expert as very ancient, or perhaps remarkable, though the writing was larger than usual, and carefully penned.

On the next morning at sunrise I was taken again to the synagogue to witness a circumcision. Many men were assembled wearing phylacteries and prayer shawls or scarves, called locally sisid, but in Hebrew talithy some of which were ornamented with strips of silver and gold. The congregation sat on the ground, but sprang to their feet at the repetition of the Kodeslh or " Holy, Holy, Holy! " and from time to time they turned towards Jerusalem.

BOKHARA. 69

After the usual daily morning prayers, which last for about three-quarters of an hour, two chairs were brought into the midst of the congregation near a stone lectern, said to be 400 years old, and covered with cloths of silk. The officiating rabbi or priest then took in his hand a silver rod, called the rod of Elijah, and the child was brought in by the father amid shouting and recitation of prayers by the congregation. A prayer was said by the rabbi, after which the infant, held by two aged men, was circumcised according to the law.

The usual offering given to the priest on such occasions is from four to ten shillings, or more per haps from the rich. To what extent, and in what numbers, their rich men exist is not easy to tell at a glance, since many years of oppression and extortion have made them careful to hide their wealth.

In Bokhara the Jews still labour under many re- strictions. They may not wear a garment of silk, for instance, with a belt and a turban, but are compelled to wear a cotton khalat and black calico cap, and to be girded only with a piece of string. Again, they may not ride a horse in the city, and in the fields are made to dismount from an ass before a mounted Muham- madan, who, if he choose, may smite a Jew, but the Jew must not retaliate.

The boys, many of whom, like their mothers, were extremely good-looking, at first were terrified at me if only I patted them on the head. Meanwhile they showed themselves well disposed towards me, some of them remembering my former visit, especially one boy to whom I had given a Hebrew New Testament. Moreover, true to their character, the Jews were not above turning a penny where possible. The rabbi sold me a small manuscript roll of the Book of Esther ;

or the

70

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

and coins and precious stones were brought for my selection, as also old embroidery. Some of the last I purchased, and now value highly.

JEWS OF BOKHARA.

I expressed a strong desire to see also the Zindan or city prison of Bokhara, which they asked me not to photograph. It was a wretched place, of which they might well be ashamed, consisting of two rooms, not too

BOKHARA. 7i

large for four persons, but into which they had crammed 47. The first room was ten paces long, the ceiling almost within reach, and contained 25 prisoners, one poor fellow crying because sick, and apparently broken- hearted. The second chamber was six paces square, without boards or ceiling, the domed roof opening to the sky, and containing 22 prisoners, of whom six were Persians.

There was no furniture in the rooms, except a piece or two of matting on the bare earth, a water vessel, and the most wretched sanitary arrangements. They said the man longest there had been imprisoned 1 8 months ; and it is proper to remember that im- prisonment as such, for a term of years, for instance, is not a recognised form of Bokhara punishment, but men are put in prison until their cases can be dealt with and disposed of in a summary fashion, which may be anything between a thrashing and being put to death.

Joseph, my servant, had brought an armful of bread, which I would not entrust to the keepers, but dis- tributed myself; and on going again on a subsequent day for a similar purpose I perceived, in the centre of the chamber, open to the sky, a hole covered over with earth and sticks, which I learned was the entrance to the bottle-shaped dungeon, into which prisoners could be lowered by cords.

Here it was, I make no doubt, that the English Colonel Stoddart was at first placed by Nasr-ullah, the present Emirs grandfather, and afterwards re- moved to another prison within the palace, where he and Captain Conolly were said to have been persecuted by sheepticks.

However that may be, I had heard from Colonel

72 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Tcharykofif that, before he came to the Residency, it was hinted to the new Emir that such abominations could not be allowed in a city inhabited by a repre- sentative of the Czar, in deference to which desire of his friends the Russians the Emir had covered up the underground dungeon, and released, or otherwise dis- posed of, more than ioo prisoners confined therein at the death of his father.

I brought away a souvenir of the Zindan in the form of a hand-drum such as is used by the master of a hawking party. There it was beaten by the Zindan watchman walking round the walls at night. It was given me by the jailer, into whose apartments we went when looking at the kitchen, near to which was the tomb of a mullah of repute.

Another place I thought it might be a charity to visit was the lepers' quarter, which before at Karshi they refused to allow me to see, nor did I subsequently get more than a passing glimpse of it, and that by stealth, at Bokhara. I now said that I wished to give a dinner to the lunatics, the prisoners, and the lepers ; and we rode out to a village where were reported to be 200 persons, or houses of the infected. They were not congregated in any one building, so that all we could do was to gather a few together, ask for their head-man, and give him some money to distribute.

I heard of no hospital of any kind in Bokhara, though Dr Heyfelder, on the railway staff of General Annenkofif, when resident in the city, had given the natives much medical assistance, and made many friends thereby. He told me, quite feelingly, that the Divan-beggi, when shot, sent for his assist-

BOKHARA. 73

ance, but he was too far off to arrive in time to be of use.#

It is not customary in Bokhara that visitors be admitted to the presence of the Emir until they have remained in the city a few days, at the least three it was said on my former visit, and during that interval they would not, at Shahr-i-Sabz, let me go off the premises. On the present occasion the staying within was not exacted, but on the fifth day after my arrival my Spanish fellow-guest and I were to be presented to the Emir, who was staying in his summer palace at Shirbadan, a few miles out of the city.

His Highness sent repeated invitations to M. Klemm, desiring that he also would come. Accord- ingly, we drove in a caleche through the streets, preceded by a cavalcade of numerous outriders and servants, and after them, to do honour to the occasion, the Minister of Finance, lately Bek of Charjui. Added to this the people along the route were en fete, keeping the Muhammadan New Year, the festivities of which had been postponed on account of the Emir's absence in March. As we approached Shirbadan the crowds increased, for they were expecting to scramble for presents, and, in addition, soldiers were drawn up to salute.

The palace, with a fairly good entrance approached by four steps from the court, and covered with an awning supported by two slender wooden columns, stands in a garden of a hundred acres, and the

* This was the more remarkable when a surgical operation might be necessary, because it was said that the Bokhariots will not submit to amputation, thinking that, unless whole at the time of death, they cannot enter heaven. I heard too that the bodies of Persian subjects in Russia are not subjected to post-mortem examination, in deference perhaps to the same superstition.

74 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Reception Hall, with its pool of water in front, is ornamented on the exterior with arabesque painting in no way remarkable. It was otherwise with the ceiling within, which had been painted only a year before, and was, I think, the prettiest work of art we saw in Bokhara. The room had glazed windows, testifying to contact with Russia, as did also the three chairs placed for the visitors and a fourth occupied by the Emir ; but I remember no other furniture in the room, which was richly carpeted.

I had been requested not to ask permission to take his Highness's portrait, though I managed otherwise to secure his photograph in full dress, wearing a richly embroidered velvet khalat and trousers, with a sword and a highly ornamented turban, and attended by one of his ministers. On the present occasion he was less gorgeously dressed, and displayed the insignia of four or five Russian and Bokhariot orders.

It was pleasant for us that M. Klemm could speak to the Emir direct in Persian, and thus kindly act as interpreter. After sundry remarks of a formal cha- racter, and passing of compliments, we attempted to interest him with the recital of some of our travels. But geography, if existent at all, occupies a poor place in the Muhammadan curriculum, and it was some- what difficult to find subjects for conversation of mutual interest. I thought the present Emir, how- ever, more intelligent than his father, and after a few more speeches he invited us to walk in his flower garden and take refreshment in an adjoining room.

This tea-room, as it was called, was said to be 50 years old. It was less brilliant than the one we left, and here was spread for us the usual dostarkhan of fruits and sweets and pilau, of which they pressed us

THE EMIR OF BOKHARA AND HIS TREASURER.

?6 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

much to eat abundantly. Then we adjourned to the gardens, which were in no way beautiful to an English eye.

After awhile we returned, and to our surprise found awaiting us a number of presents that were quite embarrassing. Mine consisted of a horse with tur- quoise-mounted bridle, a silver- and spangle-em- broidered saddle-cloth, and ten khalats or changes of raiment. Two were of woollen stuff, one of them real kashmir, which Paisley shawls are made to imitate, and the other coarser ; a third was of gold and satin damask ; a fourth of scarlet silk velvet ; a fifth of striped satin ; and others of silk and cotton native materials and mixtures. Besides these were three khalats of inferior quality for my servant.

The presents given to my fellow-guest and to M. Klemm resembled my own, and took me somewhat aback ; for, remembering how kindly the late Emir had entertained me, I had brought with me some few presents I thought his son might appreciate. But M. Klemm informed me they had altered the custom, so that I expected not to receive since I was not allowed to give, and afterwards I was further dissuaded on the ground that presents were received by the Emir only from the Russian Emperor, the Governor-General, etc.

On our return to the Residency I was glad to keep the robes of honour, but was not so clear what to do with the horse, which, when the saddle-cloth was taken off, proved a sorry steed, and to take it with me was pronounced impossible. A dealer accordingly was brought from the market who offered me 50^. as its value, and I took the man at his price, thereby giving rise on the morrow to a somewhat unusual

BOKHARA. 77

exhibition of commercial dealing, for the Emirs officer at the Residency, hearing the price quoted, insisted that the man should give more, and I was offered some few roubles in addition.

I judged it right, however, not to be outdone, and said, " No, a bargain's a bargain. Had the man come saying that he found the price given too much, he would not have had money returned, and I do not think that now I ought to receive more." This remark they approved, and were content to abide by ; but the incident reminded me how, continually, in the bazaar and elsewhere, the Emirs men had asked the price I gave for my purchases, which they do in the case of strangers, it was said, in order to prevent their being cheated.

All at the Residency were foreigners, but it was interesting to see how important an influence they wielded in the city, and how well the Resident and his Secretary were suited to their posts. Colonel Tcharykoff struck me as an able diplomatist, and the Secretary as thoroughly industrious, and better acquainted with Oriental languages than most Russians I met.

Hence the people, whether Jews or natives, could come with their grievances, which they frequently did, hoping that the Russians would gain them redress. Slaves sometimes came asking to be freed. Fathers complained of the treatment of their daughters by the Emir, and some of the discontented occasionally were bold enough to ask that the Czar would take posses- sion of the country.

It was not the policy of the Resident, however, to interfere more than was necessary in the domestic affairs of the Khanate, except when they related to

78

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Russian subjects ; and as for annexing the Khanate, 11 Why," as one asked of me, " should they do that ? " To administer the country in Muscovite fashion would cost a great deal more than the taxes would pay for, and if the Russians want anything done, they have

COLLEGE OF DIVAN-BEGGI.

simply to nod to the Emir, and he does it. They are much too wise, therefore, to annex Bokhara ; but if need arises, it can, of course, be done at any moment.

During our stay at Bokhara, I went sometimes for a drive with M. Mirbadalefif, or for a ride with him

BOKHARA. 79

and Mdlle Aphekhtine, which gave opportunities for seeing the town and noticing the curious customs in its narrow, old-fashioned streets. I visited some of the Medresses or Colleges, of which that of the Divan- beggi, with its pool in front, and shaded by mulberry trees a century old, is one of the best.

A smaller one called Chuchugoim, near the Resi- dency, was inhabited by 13 students only. One had been there three years, and intended to stay much longer, but was so poor as to be thankful for alms, which Joseph asked on his behalf, saying that the scholar could not beg. I gave, therefore, like a good Mussulman for the nonce, and in accordance with the teaching of the Koran, which prescribes giving not only " to him who asks," but u to him who is ashamed to ask" — a very good maxim for countries where primitive manners obtain, and begging has not become a trade.

M. Klemm, arriving one evening, brought intelli- gence that General Annenkoff wished to see me, and would arrive in two or three days ; but as during that time he did not come, I judged it better to go forwards towards Samarkand, examining on my way the railway operations at the head of the line.

CHAPTER VI.

SAMARKAND.

Departure from Bokhara, 80. — Arrival at head of the line ; Guest of General Annenkoff, 81. — M. Rubenstein and Dr Heyfelder, 84. — Drive to Katte Kurgan ; Custom-house ; A banquet antici- pated, 85. — Departure by post-horses, 86. — Farewell to General Annenkoff; Bridges prepared for railway, 87. — Approach to Samarkand ; Guest with M. Tolpygo ; Dinner at Government House, 88. — Condition of former acquaintances ; Sights revisited ; Tamerlane's Mausoleum, 89. — Synagogue, and visits from Jews ; Farewell to M. Tolpygo and Samarkand, 91.

WE left Bokhara a little before midnight on April 22nd, after trying to sleep for an hour or two at the station inn, this establishment being impressed on my memory because it was the only hotel to which the hospitality of the Russians allowed me to go whilst passing through their territory east of the Caspian.

We passed at Kuyuk Mazar, the first station, from the cultivation of Bokhara to the uncultivated Steppe, and early in the morning reached Malik, the next station beyond being Kermine, the bekship of which was usually held, as in the case of the present Emir, by the heir-apparent to the Bokhara throne. Here we caught our first glimpse of the Central Asian mountains, and, after proceeding another 16 miles, reached Zia-eddin or Ziat-din, one of the principal

SAMARKAND.

81

towns of the bekship. After this we arrived about noon, at a distance of 91 miles from Bokhara and 828 from the Caspian, at an open place called Tugai Robat, which was for the moment the end of the line.

I was glad of the opportunity of being the guest of

AT THE HEAD OF THE LINE.

the General, of whom one had heard so much, and of seeing his famous train of two-storied railway waggons, a veritable movable village of 1 ,500 persons. Calling upon his Excellency in his own waggon, which he had inhabited for about three years, it was found to consist of office and bedroom, lavatory, etc., for himself and vol. 1. 6

82

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA,

his immediate staff of officers, whilst in the upper story was accommodation for servants.

This train was never allowed to be very far from the head of the line, which meant, of course, that it frequently moved, since, when the weather was good and all went well, the rails were being laid at the rate of four miles a day, the embankment being prepared beforehand, and the metals brought alongside on a

A LOCOMOTIVE HABITATION FOR GENERAL ANNENKOFF, PART OF HIS STAFF, AND

SERVANTS.

narrow movable Decauville railway, as imported twice a day on trains from the Caspian.

I stayed only a day at Tugai Robat, but had time to see the principal features of the rolling community, which necessitated, at its various stopping-places, the erection of tents, the creation of a temporary " bazaar," and a brisk trade with the natives of the locality. In the evening I dined with the General's staff, almost all of whom were very young.

84

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

Among the staff was M. Rubenstein, son of the well-known musician of that name. The General bade him help me forward on, the morrow. Another officer on the staff was Dr Heyfelder, to whom my name was known through my books. He had published an

MAKING A CUTTING— ASSES TAKING AWAY THE EARTH IN PANNIERS.

excellent little work, Transkaspien unci seine Eisenbahn. He was on the staff of Skobeleff at the taking of Geok Tepe, and, being of an inquiring turn of mind, had studied the people and things about him, and knew Turkmenia well, I thought myself fortunate when he

SAMARKAND. 85

proposed that on the morrow we should travel together to Katte Kurgan.

M. Rubenstein arranged that one of the General's carriages should be placed at our disposal, and in this, with a troika of horses, we set out on what proved a pretty and interesting, but extremely dirty, drive. As we proceeded alongside the embankment we had oppor- tunity of seeing a cutting here and there, in which the labour of asses taking away the earth in panniers was a feature not usual on English railways. For the most part the ground to Katte Kurgan was level.

We passed the Custom-house on the frontier. M. Klemm had kindly telegraphed on my account from Bokhara that my baggage should not be stopped or examined, and Dr Heyfelder now told the officials that my servant was following in an arba, — all of which seemed very simple ; but I subsequently learned that, lacking these favours, the passing out of Bokhara into Russian Turkistan might have given me some little trouble and perhaps expense.

We finished our drive of 18 miles, and arrived early in the afternoon at Katte Kurgan, where I was taken to be the guest of Mr Engineer Yanushkovosky. Dr Heyfelder introduced me also to some of the in- habitants of this frontier Russian town, which just now was all in a ferment, expecting within a day or two the first appearance of the train, when the coming of General Annenkofif was to be celebrated with a banquet.

The General had kindly expressed a wish that I should be present at the grandest/^ of all, to be held on a day fixed in the near future at Samarkand ; but of this I could hold out no hope, nor indeed could I wait at Katte Kurgan for the minor festival. I called

86 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

on Colonel Voisekovitch, the chief of the district, to whom I presented M. Klemm s card, and asked for a padarojna, or ticket to travel by post-horses to the frontier near Kuldja.

I was too old a traveller by Russian post not to know how many conveniences would be given or denied me, according to whether I received an ordinary traveller s ticket, or a crown padarojna such as is usually reserved for officials, since the latter gives the first claim to post-horses and sundry other advantages.

Remembering, therefore, the value of quoting a good precedent, I produced an old crown padarojna showing how I had been indulged on my former visit, and was not a little pleased when the Colonel informed me I should be so indulged again, and that I could have my horses early on the morrow.

On driving next morning out of Katte Kurgan, we left the tourist world behind, with its comfortable carriages and cushions, for the sterner mode of pro- gression in Russia implied by the word pericladnoi, or rough springless post-cart supplied to travellers who have no tarantass or carriage of their own. Arrangements had been made for me to have a taran- tass farther on ; but as Samarkand was only 43 miles distant, a large post-cart, good of its kind, was supplied, into which my baggage was packed, myself seated thereon, and Joseph with the driver perched on the box.

We had not gone very far when we met General Annenkofif, who had been obliged to leave Tugai Robat on the day of my arrival, and was now returning. Seeing my rough vehicle, he asked, half apologetically, if I was comfortable, and on being answered in the affirmative, he gave me his card to M. Tolpygo, another

SAMARKAND.

87

of his engineer officers at Samarkand, with whom I might lodge.

Having thus multiplied his kindnesses in favour of a passing traveller, we parted — he to return for a few weeks longer to his little carriage-home, and I

CONSTRUCTION OF A BRIDGE NEAR SAMARKAND.

to continue my journey eastwards, gratified at having met a man whose name will not soon be forgotten in the history of railroad making.

We did not see much of the preparations for the railway beyond Katte Kurgan, but were given to understand that the last bridge was finished, the

88 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

embankment made, and all in readiness for the sleepers and rails. The number of small bridges required near Samarkand was enormously increased, in passing over cultivated land, by reason of the irrigation canals, whereby the water is led from the Zarafshan.

We approached Samarkand by a road I remembered well, with the military cantonment lying off to the right, and shaded by numerous trees, such as the Russians have planted by thousands both within and without the capital. These excited the admiration of Joseph not a little ; for though he knew Western Asia, including Persia and Afghanistan, he had never seen a town with streets so full of poplars, sometimes three and four deep, growing beside watercourses, and suggesting the delights of a Muhammadan paradise. On reaching the house of Mr Engineer Tolpygo, it was found to be a large building of one story, em- bowered in tall trees, and having a covered portico or platform admirably adapted for the outdoor meals that the Russian loves, and in a hot place like Samarkand in summer, exceedingly agreeable. Here a welcome was accorded me, and a room placed at my disposal, whilst my host, living en gar$ont entertained me at meals with soriie of his fellow-engineers.

I proceeded, within a few hours of my arrival in Samarkand, to call on the Governor, General Yaphi- movitch. I remembered well the approach to the Government House, for it was there I stayed on my previous visit, though not with its present occupant. I soon found that I was no stranger, and dining there the same evening, I met Colonel Poukalofif, who in 1882 had been chief of the town of Tashkend, and reminded me of my inquiries and of the remarks then made as to the possibility of crossing into Chinese

SAMARKAND. 89

Turkistan, a feat that neither he nor I then thought it likely I should ever accomplish.

The Colonel was now promoted to be Vice-Governor of Samarkand, and I had heard of other acquaintances who, in six years, had climbed the ladder a few steps higher ; but things were not all on the bright side.

On calling next morning on the chief of the district, George Arendarenko, I learned that Yakoob, who accompanied me as interpreter to Khiva, was dead. Also a gentleman who had shown me great attention and kindness in one of the towns of Turkistan, had got his official accounts wrong, and been under judg- ment ; whilst another case more painful still was that of a highly intellectual young fellow, with whom I had stayed, and who struck me as extremely well educated and gentlemanly, but who had succumbed to the fascination of the card-table and wine-cup, and become a moral and social wreck.

As for the two djiguitts who accompanied me from Samarkand to the Oxus, one of them, Kolutch, was gone for the moment to Kerki, whilst Fazul was now told off to accompany me about the town.

I have described elsewhere a former stay in Samar- kand, but there were certain places that one could not do otherwise than re-visit, notably the Mausoleum of Tamerlane. The building is too far gone for restora- tion to anything like its original beauty, nor will its present condition stand comparison with the antique monuments of India and the care bestowed on them by the Indian Government ; but on entering the tomb of Tamerlane I found it swept and garnished, its marbles polished, and the whole kept in a better con- dition than in 1882 ; whilst by contrast with the dis- graceful manner in which the natives had allowed this

90

CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

venerable pile of their ancestors to fall into neglect and ruin, the Russians have expended an amount of care upon it that is fairly puzzling to the Muhammadans.

THE GUR-EMIR, OR MAUSOLEUM OF TAMERLANE AT SAMARKAND.

On emerging from the Gur-Emir we passed up the splendid avenue leading to the Rhigistan, an im- provement, needless to say, of the Russians.

SAMARKAND.. 91

I visited again the synagogue of the Jews, and found that they had a new one in course of building, thereby showing the greater liberty they enjoy under Russian rule than their brethren at Bokhara under the Emir, who, like his father before him, has persistently refused to allow them to build a new synagogue.

I told the Jews of Samarkand that at the close of my journey in Bokhara in 1882, when writing to thank the Emir for his kindness, I had asked him to mitigate the oppressed condition of his Jewish subjects, which they heard with satisfaction, and the Rabbi invited me to his house for further conversation.

Later, on a Sunday morning, two Jews called on me, showing a portrait of myself as clean and fresh almost as when received from me six years before. One of them had been reading the New Testament, and the copy I had given to the other had been handed down to his son. Thinking to apply a money test to his sincerity, I offered a further copy of the Hebrew New Testament for 20 kopecks, which he immediately gave, and both seemed interested to see me again.

On the Saturday after my arrival, M. Tolpygo had to leave me for Katte Kurgan, of which I took advantage to send by him a letter of thanks to General Annenkoff for all his attention.

M. Tolpygo also laid me under other obligations by his additions to my collection of photographs. Further, the Governor volunteered to lend me a tarantass wherein to travel to Tashkend ; so that, after spending a good part of Palm Sunday with the Vice- Governor, who took me after dinner to the Ivanoff Park, we left Samarkand on Monday morning.

CHAPTER VII.

TASHKEND.

Crossing the Zarafshan to the bridge of Shadman-Malik ; Route to Jizak, 92. — Across the " Hungry " Steppe to Chinaz, 93. — Tashkend, 94. — Dinner with Governor-General Rosenbach ; Help from Captain Blinoff, 95. — Easter services, and subsequent recep- tion at Government House ; Lutherans' request for a service and Easter communion ; Withdrawal of money from bank, 96. — Arrangements for communication with Kashgar, 97. — Improve- ments in Tashkend and purchases, 99. — Russian lady nurses, 101. — An open-air bazaar ; Further visits to Government House, and parting amenities, 102.

ALTHOUGH it was now the last day of April, by which date in Turkistan the warm weather has usually set in, we found it chilly at half-past six in the morning when driving out of Samarkand. The water of the Zarafshan was sufficiently low to allow of its being forded, without having our baggage and selves transferred into a tall arba, as had been the case when I crossed before. Having gained the northern bank, we turned aside to look -for a few minutes at the two arches of the ruined bridge of Shadman-Malik.

We had before us a journey of 190 miles to Tashkend, and it had been arranged that I should sleep the first night at Jizak. My host was Colonel Alexander Mikhailovitch Sunargulofif, a native who

TASHKEND.

93

did not speak French, in consequence of which Captain Goujouss came to the rescue as interpreter. On this my first day's travel for the season in a tarantass proper, I had been incautious enough to lay by my side a bag containing an india-rubber washing basin, and Galton's Art of Travel. These in the course of the journey had jolted out of the vehicle, and inquiries were set on foot by my host

I

WELLS IN THE "HUNGRY STEPPE.

for their recovery, but in vain. Happily it was my only loss of the kind whilst posting, and, by the kindness of friends, I was able^afterwards to replace both the missing articles.

Next morning, early, we started to cross the "Hungry" Steppe, passing in the course of the day, and changing horses at, four stations, of which the most remarkable was Murza- Rabat. Here stands an old ruin of a caravanserai supposed to date from

94 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

the sixteenth century. It is built of large square bricks, and consists of a central chamber covered by a dome, as are several smaller chambers adjoining.*

Towards evening we finished our 80 miles of Steppe, and approached the Syr-daria river, crossed by a large rude ferry-boat, and soon after dark reached Chinaz. It would have been easy to post the remaining 40 miles during the night, but I pre- ferred to rest at the post-house. Next morning we passed the station of Old Tashkend, drove along the valley of the Chirchik, with snow mountains in front of us, and soon after midday arrived at Tashkend.

In Tashkend there was obligingly placed at my dis- posal a furnished house in Romanoff Street, wherein are usually lodged embassies from Bokhara. This was far more comfortable than what I remembered of the local hotels, my small meals being provided by the caretaker, his wife, and my servant, whilst Prince Cantakouzine introduced me at the military club, where I could lunch and dine, and meet officers who were ready in various ways to advise and assist in my projected expedition.

Calling the day of my arrival on General Rosenbach,

the Governor-General, in his modest and unpretending

palace, where so little state was kept up that the front

entrance was not used except on special occasions, I

found my coming expected and my name known,

thanks partly to Miss Hay, an English lady living

in the family, who had translated to them some of

my writings.

* It has no doubt afforded a place of refuge to many a caravan in days when an escort was necessary in crossing the dreary waste. The road is now perfectly safe from robbers, as are all the post-roads of Russian Turkistan, thereby presenting a striking contrast to those I subsequently travelled on in Asiatic Turkey.

TASHKEND. 95

The General invited me to dinner the same evening, and at once expressed his willingness to help me in everything I asked, not excepting even my return, if necessary, over the Terek Pass into Ferghana. In fact, his Excellency seemed in no way inclined to follow an exclusive policy in keeping Englishmen and other foreigners out of Turkistan.

" Why should we ? " said Madame, as we discussed the subject at table. "We have nothing to hide or be ashamed of foreigners seeing here, but rather some- thing to be proud of!" whereupon I put in a good word for Mr St George Littledale, who I knew was just about to ask permission to pass through Turkistan to the Russian Pamirs for a season s shooting of wild sheep, and on whose behalf I had written to M. Vlangali. Subsequently the Generals sincerity was proven, as I judged on receipt of a telegram from Mr Littledale in one word, which the telegraph clerk in Kuldja spelt " Komming."

I perceived much appreciation by the Governor- General of English people and things, and it was amusing on a subsequent visit to discover that his sister was known to me by reputation, and had been living within a mile or two of my home at Blackheath.

On the day after our arrival an officer named Blinoff called, whose duty it seemed to be to look after the material comforts of guests, which he did thoroughly, and sent to me a M. Feodoroff, who took me to see M. Klemm's tarantass, wherein I was to go forward to Kuldja, the vehicle being first put in thorough repair.

I had arrived, however, in Passion Week, and the near approach of festivities did not promise well for my getting away quickly, though, on the other hand,

96 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA. '

I was glad to have reached the capital, wherein to witness for the first time a Russian Easter.

On Good Friday evening I attended, in the cathedral, the Vuinos, or ceremony of the entombment, and was present also at a gorgeous spectacle in the same building on Easter Eve.

I had been specially invited to go from the church to the Government House, where was held a select official reception, and where I met again Colonel Tcharykoff, from Bokhara, in court costume, with many others, who, after conversation and walking about for an hour, sat down to an ample Easter supper, and towards three in the morning made their way home.

Meanwhile I had been asked by Colonel Lilienfeld if I would not give the Lutherans a service, they having no resident pastor, and several of them being desirous to partake of an Easter communion. But my German was weak, English was useless, and, though able to speak, I had never attempted to preach, in French. This last seemed, however, to be the only way out of the difficulty, and as it came before me in the way of a plain duty, I resolved to try, and gave them both service and sermon in the house of a M. Pfennig.

An important transaction, for me, in Tashkend was the withdrawal from the State Bank of roubles forwarded there, as the ultima thule in this direction of the banking world. How to carry my money had been a puzzle from the outset. For civilised regions Messrs Brown, Shipley, & Co. supplied a single letter of credit, by means of which I could draw upon their correspondents any amount up to a certain sum named ; and this was preferable to the usual way of

TASHKEND. 97

carrying a number of circular letters for ^10 each, which, when numerous, became bulky.

As for the little-known regions whither I was proceeding, I had gathered from Mr Carey's paper, read not long before at the Royal Geographical Society, that he exchanged rupee notes at a discount in parts of the Tarim valley, and I accordingly purchased as many of these as just then could be found in London, but vainly inquired in the great city for any one who could give me a letter of credit for Chinese Turkistan ; and upon asking if the General Post Office could inform or assist me, they replied that the department possessed no information what- ever as to the places I mentioned, since they were quite beyond the recognised region of regular postal communication. It seemed not unreasonable to hope that some of the merchants in St Petersburg could furnish a letter of credit upon Kashgar, but it was not so.

At Junker's bank they advised taking to Turkistan Russian gold coins. Perhaps they had some to sell, for they quoted as a price nearly two roubles paper for one of gold. Fortunately for me, I did not take their advice. To have done so would have been a blunder, and costly to boot. With the pride pardon- able in an Englishman, I had thought that her Majesty's countenance on a clean Jubilee sovereign could not fail anywhere to command respect, and I had taken 50 ; but that proved a delusion.

Another adviser in St Petersburg said that the people of Chinese Turkistan were unaccustomed to gold coins, and that lumps of brute silver were the proper thing. This was true, but to have turned my sterling into lump silver, even had it been possible

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98 CHINESE CENTRAL ASIA.

at the Russian capital, would have added more than three hundredweight to my baggage!

In doubt, therefore, I telegraphed to Kuldja whether one should bring Russian gold, silver roubles, or paper roubles, and was told the last. The condition of the Russian money market was just then in my favour, for there was a panic on their exchange, and, whilst gold had advanced in price, and in quantities was not even to be had, paper fell 2d. below what I had given for the rouble in England, and enabled me to purchase more, at about is. 8d. each.

Accordingly, with some thousands of these in my pocket, my London letter, 50 sovereigns, some rupee notes, and a London cheque, I determined to try again in Moscow and Tiflis for the needed letter of credit on Kashgar. But Moscow proved no better in this respect than St Petersburg ; and at Tiflis, where my cheque was changed for more paper roubles, I found the only way to avoid carrying the money about me was to place it in the State Bank to be transferred to Tashkend, payable at call.

This was a temporary lessening of responsibility, which returned, however, on receiving my deposit in notes of 100 roubles each, which a St Petersburg adviser had specially urged should, according to Chinese taste, be clean and new.

Among various persons upon whom I called in Tashkend was M. Pomerantzofif, at the Observatory, who showed